1.2 Bar Boost On Stock R34 Gt-r?

[Weapon]

so R34 GTR has better dump pipes than R32 and R33 GTR ??

my car is stock at the moment apart from Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust , K&N panel filter and 100mm thick intercooler

during the day boost peaks at 1.1bar and at night 1.25bar

and i dont have a boost controller ....

what should i do ??

Check around under the bonnet for a manual bleed/tap boost control valve just incase you haven't spotted one hiding under there. Don't quote me on this but even if you flick out the factory boost selenoid it should only run about 1bar boost???

[Phatboy]

HKS GT-SS Turbos

NISMO 600cc Injectors

NISMO fuel pump

Apexi Power FC & Hand Controller

Trust Oil Cooler

Then Trust Profec B Spec II boost controller running @ 1.2 BAR.

Should produce some decent power/reliability then eh??? Or am I missing somthing here?

I'm not that experienced, but my own 34GTR is being modified along similar lines, and my impression is:

Instead of the Profec B, why don't you just get the optional PowerFC boost controller. You're already getting the hand controller to control it with.

And with that set-up I don't think an upgraded fuel pump will make any difference.

[Johnny]

Grab a HKS EVC, great controller and quite stealthy; they use a stepper motor instead of a solenoid which is meant to be faster at controlling gate vs rpm vs boost vs load etc

ummm yeah, i turned mine down like i said for daily driving to pretty much stock level as it feels better for road use (low rpm changes)

[rtune]

Grab a HKS EVC, great controller and quite stealthy; they use a stepper motor instead of a solenoid which is meant to be faster at controlling gate vs rpm vs boost vs load etc

my understanding was the opposite, that a (dual) solenoid is much faster than a stepper. A stepper is like a servo: it turns to vary the degree of opening. A solenoid is practically instant: from fully closed to fully open. So it cycles very quickly between the two states to simulate any condition required. My hunch is it comes to the programming of the unit - i expect both under the right cpu control can do what it takes - but it makes sense to me that a solenoid can switch to whatever degree of impediment required within a fraction of a second vs a stepper which has to, well, step...

[R31Nismoid]

Or dont run a EBC at all

I dont, nor do most of the other ones coming outta the doors @ racepace

[Bakes]

1.2 Bar for daily driving, no problems at all on mine.

[The Dan]

Ok I had Garrett check the part number on the turbo I have here. The turbo is straight off a series 1 R34GTR Vspec. The turbine wheel is the same one used in the S15 turbo so they said it is steel. They also said that ANY GARRETT TURBO that has a ball bearing cartridge will be steel wheel. The R34GTR Turbos are all ball bearing and all made by Garrett. I'm having the exact dimensions faxed and emailed to me so I'll put up them when I can. The Garrett part number on this R34 turbo cartridge is 702987-3. It is a smaller turbo than a 707160-7.

[The Dan]

To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel.

**EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol.

I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath.

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

I hope this information is useful to everyone.

Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.

[nfi]

To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel.

**EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol.

I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath.

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

I hope this information is useful to everyone.

Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.

You are being informed by idiots... TRUST ME I have seen it with my own eyes and so have others that they are ceramic on the exhaust side (not inlet). The way it destroys your motor is when the turbine wheels flies apart your instant reaction is to back off since it makes a bad noise and creates a bit of vacuum inconjunction with a turbine blade that has just literally disintegrated at 100,000rpm. The result is the bits go back into the bore and scratch the hell out your bore.

We are only saying this so you don't end up getting punished with an engine rebuild because you have been told the wrong thing. You can choose not to believe us if you want- your call.

[The Dan]

You are being informed by idiots... TRUST ME I have seen it with my own eyes and so have others that they are ceramic on the exhaust side (not inlet). The way it destroys your motor is when the turbine wheels flies apart your instant reaction is to back off since it makes a bad noise and creates a bit of vacuum inconjunction with a turbine blade that has just literally disintegrated at 100,000rpm. The result is the bits go back into the bore and scratch the hell out your bore.

We are only saying this so you don't end up getting punished with an engine rebuild because you have been told the wrong thing. You can choose not to believe us if you want- your call.

Thanks for the explanation.

But do we really have to go through this again and again.

I'm not some kind of idiot that just walked in off the street. I am a Garrett distributor and Garrett themselves have that turbo listed as having a steel wheel. They make the turbo, I think they would know what they put in it. If you want to ring Garrett and tell them they are idiots, then go right ahead.

*waits for Dirt to tell me it's some kind of marketing device*

By the way ^^^ that's a joke so don't get all cranky at me.

[The Dan]

Good Morning Daniel,

702987-5003 R34 GTR V-SPEC FACTORY

Turbocharger as advised by Garrett Australia is ball bearing and has a steel

turbine wheel from the factory.

Compressor Wheel

–

Ind – 39.60mm

–

Exd – 56.00mm

Turbine Wheel

Exd – 41.73mm (same as Jap Spec S15)

707160-5007 – GT2860R (GTR upgrade)

Compressor Wheel

–

Ind – 44.59mm

–

Exd – 60.00mm

Turbine Wheel

Exd – 42.40mm

From Garrett ^^

[nfi]

Hear your pain... Clearly coming from the horses mouth but I still don't believe it only because I have seen it with my own eyes.

Maybe like ADM s15's (some came with ball bearing and some came with plain bearing turbos) there is some odd balls (like your example) with steel wheels.

I don't get it.

[The Dan]

Hear your pain... Clearly coming from the horses mouth but I still don't believe it only because I have seen it with my own eyes.

Maybe like ADM s15's (some came with ball bearing and some came with plain bearing turbos) there is some odd balls (like your example) with steel wheels.

I don't get it.

That is why it is important to have the part number checked. Just because one is, doesn't mean all are

[666DAN]

I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.

Did they mean you will get greater resistance with Inconel seeing as it's very much like nichrome wire? Both will conduct, just steel should give literally 0 ohms...Inconel will give a value of sorts (depending on how far apart you measure depends on how high an ohms reading you get)

[The Dan]

Did they mean you will get greater resistance with Inconel seeing as it's very much like nichrome wire? Both will conduct, just steel should give literally 0 ohms...Inconel will give a value of sorts (depending on how far apart you measure depends on how high an ohms reading you get)

Yeah not too sure. They didn't really delve much into the metalurgy but I couldn't get a reading. possibly due to carbon buildup or possibly because of the inconel but the wheel does shine if you scratch it. Hard to check while the wheel is trying to turn and the scratch is so small.

[MasterShake]

I always read that only N1 turbines have steel. perhaps Vspec gtr's run N1 components?

Either way lets get the thread back on topic . I was enjoying this potential build.

[666DAN]

Yeah not too sure. They didn't really delve much into the metalurgy but I couldn't get a reading. possibly due to carbon buildup or possibly because of the inconel but the wheel does shine if you scratch it. Hard to check while the wheel is trying to turn and the scratch is so small.

Tell the guy to stick a fork in a toaster and see if it conducts It's all Inconel (nichrome) wire in them

I'd say you've got poor contact that's all

[shy_s6]

i have 34 turbos on my 32, how hard is it to see the seriel numbers while on the car?

i can definitaly tell that they are ball bearing turbos but i would like to know if steel wheel so i can run a lil more boost!

[Johnny]

my understanding was the opposite, that a (dual) solenoid is much faster than a stepper. A stepper is like a servo: it turns to vary the degree of opening. A solenoid is practically instant: from fully closed to fully open. So it cycles very quickly between the two states to simulate any condition required. My hunch is it comes to the programming of the unit - i expect both under the right cpu control can do what it takes - but it makes sense to me that a solenoid can switch to whatever degree of impediment required within a fraction of a second vs a stepper which has to, well, step...

Ummm URAS/trent seemed to think that dual solenoids were equal or better at controlling boost than a stepper + alot of highend skylines are using them.

I did say 'may' be better and specifically hks are very reputable so im happy with mine; great control!

The blitz id III is meant to be the top bolivian flake

Ok I had Garrett check the part number on the turbo I have here. The turbo is straight off a series 1 R34GTR Vspec. The turbine wheel is the same one used in the S15 turbo so they said it is steel. They also said that ANY GARRETT TURBO that has a ball bearing cartridge will be steel wheel. The R34GTR Turbos are all ball bearing and all made by Garrett. I'm having the exact dimensions faxed and emailed to me so I'll put up them when I can. The Garrett part number on this R34 turbo cartridge is 702987-3. It is a smaller turbo than a 707160-7.

Yo thanks for that info, ummm I seem to recall in a dvd that the r34 turbines used a ceramic exhaust wheel for better low down torque and the compressor wheel was ball bearing

Did you check the exhaust side?? or did i miss that

ummm anyways why would the engine blow if the turbine goes, the exhaust wheel would go first and pump out into the cat, the compressor wheel may/may not disintegrate and if it does would fly have to make it through the hot pipes/intercooler/cold pipe/plenum/throttles etc

All this while the engine is running very rich and will probably cut out.

[The Dan]

Yo thanks for that info, ummm I seem to recall in a dvd that the r34 turbines used a ceramic exhaust wheel for better low down torque and the compressor wheel was ball bearing

Did you check the exhaust side?? or did i miss that

ummm anyways why would the engine blow if the turbine goes, the exhaust wheel would go first and pump out into the cat, the compressor wheel may/may not disintegrate and if it does would fly have to make it through the hot pipes/intercooler/cold pipe/plenum/throttles etc

All this while the engine is running very rich and will probably cut out.

I don't understand what you mean by ceramic turbine and ball bearing compressor wheel?

The compressor and turbine are joined by a shaft and the ball bearings are in the centre.

I have not been referring to the compressor wheel in any of my comments, only the turbine wheel.

They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.