1.2 Bar Boost On Stock R34 Gt-r?

[xanavinismo]

Instead of the Profec B, why don't you just get the optional PowerFC boost controller. You're already getting the hand controller to control it with.

And with that set-up I don't think an upgraded fuel pump will make any difference.

Yeah I was actually thinking of getting the Power FC boost controller... is that what you are using now?

How do these ones stack up to say the HKS EVC or Blitz EBC's?

So the stock R34 GT-R fuel pump should be good to supply sufficient fuel flow even around 350kw at all fours?

[The Dan]

Yeah I was actually thinking of getting the Power FC boost controller... is that what you are using now?

How do these ones stack up to say the HKS EVC or Blitz EBC's?

So the stock R34 GT-R fuel pump should be good to supply sufficient fuel flow even around 350kw at all fours?

The stock NEW fuel pump should, yes.

How NEW is yours?

[rtune]

It is possible that a Japanese owner of a v-spec blew their ceramics and put in steel.

Everything I find says R34 v-spec I and IIs had ceramics as stock. Obviously many don't any longer. 8+ years is a long time.

Eg:

1999. 1 : A brand-new BNR 34 Skyline GT-R and Skyline GT-R Vspec have been announced in 1999. Compared with the R33 Skyline GT-R, the length has been shortened by 75mm, the wheelbase by 55mm and front overhang by 20mm, resulting in a wheelbase/tread ratio for enhanced driving performance. As for the RB26DETT engine, the camshafts have been modified for improved valve timing, enabling the engine to generate 15.6kg-m/liter of torque. Moreover, new twin ball bearing ceramic turbochargers have been adopted to deliver sharp, instantaneous response to accelerator inputs.

and, on the introduction of the Nur...

The remarkable difference between the standard RB26DETT engine and this special engine is material of the turbochargers.

Nür. edition uses N1-based roller bearing metal turbochargers instead of the standard ceramic turbochargers.

and a comment from an owner

The Nur is actually a less useable car than the V-Spec I or II because N1 turbo's are a lot laggier. Ceramic turbo's are always going to be better for low boost stuff, they are much more useable on the road.

however the N1 R32s after 02/92 had metal N1s.

Edited January 15, 2009 by r34nur

[xanavinismo]

The stock NEW fuel pump should, yes.

How NEW is yours?

Ahh ok, yeah mine is 70K+ kms old.. lol! So nismo fuel pump it is!

[R31Nismoid]

I don't understand what you mean by ceramic turbine and ball bearing compressor wheel?

The compressor and turbine are joined by a shaft and the ball bearings are in the centre.

I have not been referring to the compressor wheel in any of my comments, only the turbine wheel.

They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.

People that build RB26's, and see them blown before hand, will tell you when the rear wheel lets go (its usually the rear turbo also) there is often cermic dust/particles that have made its way into 1/2/3 of the rear cyclinders and stuffed the pistons.

The engine fail thread in Gen Maint i think has some posts by people about it, and there have been a fair few in FI over the years.

How/why is happens i dont know, however the evidence is there so its happening somehow

Its definately not the compressor side getting minced and sending it through... although this has happened on some GTS-t's here in Vic incidentally when their rear let go and flew out the exhaust.

[Johnny]

I don't understand what you mean by ceramic turbine and ball bearing compressor wheel?

The compressor and turbine are joined by a shaft and the ball bearings are in the centre.

I have not been referring to the compressor wheel in any of my comments, only the turbine wheel.

They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.

whoops soz man, i mixed my words up, i mean if the r34 turbz are steel on the compressor side.

hmmm, im only a little fuzzed that nissan would make a turbo which if it blows will destroy the engine! has anyone ever actually had this happen before??? ive lowered my boost down now to max .99kg/cm until i swap turbines..

[The Dan]

It is possible that a Japanese owner of a v-spec blew their ceramics and put in steel.

Everything I find says R34 v-spec I and IIs had ceramics as stock. Obviously many don't any longer. 8+ years is a long time.

Eg:

and, on the introduction of the Nur...

and a comment from an owner

however the N1 R32s after 02/92 had metal N1s.

It is possible they did that but these are factory R34 GTR turbos as indicated by their 14411-AA300 part number. And to top it off Garrett list the corresponding number of theirs as having a steel wheel.

Also, will ceramic shine when you scratch it?

The articles you have posted up may be correct but how do you know the information they had was correct? This is from Garrett themselves for THIS turbo. They may not all be the same. Someone give me a different number and I will have it checked. EG. 14411-AA302 will have a 702 number above it. Can someone have a look on theirs (if possible) to see what that number is. I'll get whatever information I can.

[nfi]

Johnny: Just for your reference stock r33 and r32 gtr turbos also had ceramic turbine wheels. They did this for response for the average joe blow given they aren't exactly a responsive motor below 4000rpm. They just refined the turbos and they slowly got larger in newer models.

3lit3 32: PM wrxhoon, he has pictures of his stock turbos from his v-spec2 and they were ceramic. Maybe he can give you a part number to check. He will also know how to check if they are ceramic too.

Edited January 16, 2009 by nfi

[Stallo]

3lit3 32 i currently have a pair of r34 v spec II stock turbos in my lap (literally). They have same part numbers as you've quoted (1441-AA300 702987-3 is whats on the name plate) and the turbine wheels are definitely 300% ceramic. Can post pics if you like. Was actually under the same impression as you untill i opened these up today. But the proof is sitting before me. hope this sorts things out for you.

[Piggaz]

whoops soz man, i mixed my words up, i mean if the r34 turbz are steel on the compressor side.

hmmm, im only a little fuzzed that nissan would make a turbo which if it blows will destroy the engine! has anyone ever actually had this happen before??? ive lowered my boost down now to max .99kg/cm until i swap turbines..

I'm sure nissan put those turbo's with ceramic turbine wheels to optimise STANDARD performance. No point putting a standard heavier/slower spooling turbo as stock only to pump out the same amount of power.....

[Swiper the Fox]

Thanks for the explanation.

But do we really have to go through this again and again.

I'm not some kind of idiot that just walked in off the street. I am a Garrett distributor and Garrett themselves have that turbo listed as having a steel wheel. They make the turbo, I think they would know what they put in it. If you want to ring Garrett and tell them they are idiots, then go right ahead.

*waits for Dirt to tell me it's some kind of marketing device*

By the way ^^^ that's a joke so don't get all cranky at me.

nice joke...i like it.

this is funnier though...

Garrett distributer hey...they dont think so,

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...stributors.html

its nice to be nice

Edited January 17, 2009 by DiRTgarage

[R31Nismoid]

Im a Nissan distributor Paul - i have 4 sets of GTR BOV's!

[shy_s6]

so whats a safe boost level to run my 34 turbos? currently set at 15psi.

so if i put up a seriel number can someone tell me if they are steel or ceramic wheeled? or are they all ceramic im getting mixed messages haha

also what rwkw should i expect? at the moment its tuned to 280rwkw (around 375rwhp) but i still need to get z32 afm's,

would this be the safest boost/power set up?

[rev210]

They are referring to ceramic dust that gets inside the engine. I have not personally seen this happen. The other guy said before something about a vacuum and it sucks the blades or chunks of blades back into the engine. I find that highly unlikely and would be almost impossible but you never know. What is more likely is that due to the fact the turbine is missing, the shaft kicks and the compressor wheel then grinds/chips into the compressor cover. These particles can then follow the air stream into the engine.

It happens and it's very common. The compressors are often very much perfect looking afterwards too.

My old GTR sadly had this happen and shagged the rear pots compression. Compressor side looked brand new.

If you think about it, it does make sense if you take into account the velocity and force of the wheel exploding projectiles only have to go against the exhaust pressure.

Hope that helps

[Bakes]

Shy s6, run 1.2 bar for daily driving. If you go on a Putty road cruise etc or a race track where you are constantly on and off boost and the turbos are working hard, run 1 bar.

[R31Nismoid]

so whats a safe boost level to run my 34 turbos? currently set at 15psi.

so if i put up a seriel number can someone tell me if they are steel or ceramic wheeled? or are they all ceramic im getting mixed messages haha

also what rwkw should i expect? at the moment its tuned to 280rwkw (around 375rwhp) but i still need to get z32 afm's,

would this be the safest boost/power set up?

They are ceramic unless they have been replaced or had steel wheels put in them

15psi, will kill em eventually.

For safetys sake i would be 13psi max only because of the motor killing abilties of a failed turbo.

And you shouldnt be maxing the stock AFM's out on stock turbos.

[The Dan]

3lit3 32 i currently have a pair of r34 v spec II stock turbos in my lap (literally). They have same part numbers as you've quoted (1441-AA300 702987-3 is whats on the name plate) and the turbine wheels are definitely 300% ceramic. Can post pics if you like. Was actually under the same impression as you untill i opened these up today. But the proof is sitting before me. hope this sorts things out for you.

Please post pictures and also why it is you think they are ceramic.

nice joke...i like it.

this is funnier though...

Garrett distributer hey...they dont think so,

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...stributors.html

its nice to be nice

I'm not sure why you think that's funnier.

Poor choice of words. I'm a Garrett dealer, not distributor. I didn't mean to offend you.

Thanks for correcting me on that one, though, I didn't want to go through life with that kind of confusion.

[TuLaLiT]

what I would to know is it safe to run 1.2bar for the ENGINE , i dont have aftermarket computer whatsoever , my gtr is overboosting ever since i put a modified "twin turbo" pipe and bigger intercooler

[R33GOD]

16 psi and stock ecu = no no + lean machine

[The Dan]

16 psi and stock ecu = no no + lean machine

+1