Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb Into A 30

infulleffects
 Share

Recommended Posts

OUTATIME Community Regular

OUTATIME

Posted
Posted

dropped an rb20 into my r30 the other week. used rb30 (r31) engine mounts and bolted right up. used the l24 gb xmember and that bolted up. just had 2 bend it slightly to line up with the studs. bit dodge but all gd. other option is 2 make a custom one.

and 4 the tailshaft i used a c210 manual shaft with the l24 centre bearing housing and that all bolted up fine.

now have pulled it all out again to put it into a dr30. all same but have 2 make custom gb x member cos fj mounts r way off. also used the r30 l24 engine xmember...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4233553
Share on other sites
skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted

i modified engine mounts and made a gbox x member so everything clears to pass engineers.

engine will fit with standard r31 mounts but has no clearance with the l24 engine x member.

If you want to do it just to thrash around its easy, if you want to do it properly you need to make mounts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4234733
Share on other sites
infulleffects Rookie

infulleffects

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Um it has currently got an l20et in it.

Am wanting a bit more power that it can offer, so dropping a 25det in.

The 17s are DTM frifts, 8" front 9" rear, and the other photo has the old 2 piece hartgers, 15 by 7"

Yea had guesed that I will need to do a custom gbox mount, but if I can get away with the rb30 engine mounts that would be good. Was also thinking of just getting a one-piece driveshaft made up maybe, funds permitting.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4235274
Share on other sites
r30kansai Collaborator

r30kansai

Posted
Posted

Both my conversions were previously L20ET, I didn't change the mounts or crossmember or Gbox crossmember, everything bolts straight in using original mounts, just have to get the driveshaft shortened.

The L20 crossmember and mounts are different to the L24. Assuming the RB25 uses the same cross and mounts everything should bolt straight up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4235329
Share on other sites
OUTATIME Community Regular

OUTATIME

Posted
Posted (edited)

i just used the l24 (manual) 1, on rb30 box. was massive budget conversion and just used what parts i had. i did elongate the engine cross member where the mounts bolt on so the sump would have clearance.

Edited by OUTATIME
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4235713
Share on other sites
r30kansai Collaborator

r30kansai

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if the RB25 uses the same mounts as an RB20 for engine and gearbox, I think they do but I can't confirm it.

I have heard that the FJ20 models do need a change in cross members.

It was covered some time ago, a quick search should bring it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4235852
Share on other sites
infulleffects Rookie

infulleffects

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea all rb stuff is interchangable and has same mounting I believe. Am going to use an rb30 box anyway since 25t ones are massively overpriced. Well until it blows anyway.

Well I may have to take some pics of the conversion then when I do it, just for future reference.

How do the 30s go with the rbs? Being a lot lighter than 32s I could imagine quite well...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4237510
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Well its definitly easier to work on with an RB, plus parts are easier to come by, more aftermarket parts available, plus a few thousand more in production than the L20 so theres HEAPS of second hand shiz about.

when you look at the weight of the R32, R33 and the HR31, then the weight of the R30.... the Kw per kg factor comes in and the R30 wins, as long as you have the brakes, suspension and tread to match.

my mates 190kW oz R31 haf a RB30e+t, whent like the clappers, lit up in nearly every gear, looked great, BUT had stock brakes and shit lowered springs, so in a straigh tline it was insane, as soon as ya needed to slow down or take a corner, either locked up, got sideways, or brakes faded

so make sure you do the WHOLE deal, not just under the bonnet!

seeing as i just got offered a complete RB25de setup for $400, im considering it thats for sure...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4237600
Share on other sites
infulleffects Rookie

infulleffects

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well its got d2s all round atm, the 4pots and 280mm rotors up front, and wen the engine gets dropped in I will do the 2pots on the rear, so stopping and cornering should be alright. only thing that may be a little low is the tread width on the rear...only 235 atm.

planning on getting adjustable castor rods, and doing all bushes too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4238770
Share on other sites
ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know if the RB25 uses the same mounts as an RB20 for engine and gearbox, I think they do but I can't confirm it.

I have heard that the FJ20 models do need a change in cross members.

It was covered some time ago, a quick search should bring it up.

same 4 engine, and if u go 20 box to a 25 box, same. ive said this before and dont wwant to cause another dispute. fj cross member way off. mr 30 cross member fine. o and 30s wit rbs go alot better than ne L series motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4252567
Share on other sites
works 510 Experienced

works 510

Posted
Posted

I recently just starting doing a rb25 convo into my ceffy and have found the 25 mounts to be different to the rb20 mounts

(I had to use the rb20 mounts as the 25 mounts were going to sit the motor on a funny angle)

But at the same time, I pulled a rb25de out of a car the other day and the mounts looked identicle to my rb20det mounts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4253138
Share on other sites
infulleffects Rookie

infulleffects

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So... does anybody have the pinouts for the l20et ecu handy that they could email to me? And maybe the 25det ones if someone here has them for some reason, but I will ask in the later model section if no-one does.

The engine should be arriving later this week....yusss :P

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242534-rb-into-a-30/#findComment-4267341
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...