Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I've got an aftermarket radiator, with an aftermarket tank sitting above it that seems to be connected to it, both the small aftermarket overflow tank (Apexi) and the radiator tank have filler caps so its not really required its just there for some reason.

I've also got the stock plastic overflow tank on the side which is where coolant goes if it gets boiled out.

Anyway, with the top overflow tank, how *full* should it be of coolant? Normally I only put a little coolant in there but just wondering if that's the right thing to do....

The top overflow tank is connected to the radiator so the only place it can go to is the radiator....(unless the cap comes off).

Regards,

Gareth

Image attached, I'm referring to the circled item, it's connected to the radiator, from the radiator, it can overflow to the standard overflow tank (drivers side plastic overflow tank), unfortunately I've seen that happen once :P

post-13527-1225793574_thumb.jpg

Ok the stainless tank you have circled is called a radiator header tank. It must be mounted higher than any other part of the cooling system. As its job is to remove air from the coolant. It should be about half filled so there is room for expansion and contraction. The other standard plastic bottle is just an overflow bottle which will come into play during times like when you switch the engine off and there is no longer coolant circulating. Heat soak from the engine builds excess pressure in the cooling system which over comes the spring loaded radiator cap and over flows to the bottle. The reverse happens once the system cools and the coolant contracts, it creates a vacuum in the system and draws on the coolant in the overflow botttle. You dont really need both of these over flow bottles/header tanks. As the header tank does 2 jobs, removes air and keeps a consistent supply of coolant available.

Hope this helps,

Deren

Ok the stainless tank you have circled is called a radiator header tank. It must be mounted higher than any other part of the cooling system. As its job is to remove air from the coolant. It should be about half filled so there is room for expansion and contraction. The other standard plastic bottle is just an overflow bottle which will come into play during times like when you switch the engine off and there is no longer coolant circulating. Heat soak from the engine builds excess pressure in the cooling system which over comes the spring loaded radiator cap and over flows to the bottle. The reverse happens once the system cools and the coolant contracts, it creates a vacuum in the system and draws on the coolant in the overflow botttle. You dont really need both of these over flow bottles/header tanks. As the header tank does 2 jobs, removes air and keeps a consistent supply of coolant available.

Hope this helps,

Deren

+1

nice description

Ok the stainless tank you have circled is called a radiator header tank.

<cut>

Deren

Thanks Deren, it all makes sense now, and an excellent explanation there :huh:

I have seen the overflow in use when the coolant boiled and went out of the overflow tank, I think I've got that under control now :P

I'll make sure to fill the radiator header tank about half-way, right now its using about 1/6 of its full capacity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...