Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i was winding down my window the other day and heard this massive crack and window seemed to jump out of the track..

I pulled off the door trim to have a look and i find that it had jumped out of the track..

Now my problem is i can't get it back into the track because it has seemed to damage the wheel in which is runs down in the track.

Where can i get a replacement part fast... cant drive my car at all cause my window can't safely stay up..

Car

Skyline R33 GTR 1997 Series3

Desperate to get a part.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242795-power-window-problem/
Share on other sites

best bet would be the wreckers i think

if you pull the door trim off again, and get someone to hold the window up, you can cable tie the part that holds the glass to part of the door itself to hold it up...

dealership mechanics in action.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?"  Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)
    • Reminds me I really need to install that HKS oil cooler I bought years ago.
    • It be 40°C outside lately. 10W60 is a good idea here. Well, certainly 10W50.
    • Here are some side on's.
    • I just did an oil change on my daily which used oil that is probably 2-3 years old. Normally I try to follow exact viscosities, but my LS400 is fairly tolerant. Dumped something like half a quart of 0W30 Mobil1 ESP X2 in there, followed by 2 quarts Pennzoil 5W30, followed by ~1.2 quarts of liquimoly 5W30 LL04 spec oil. Then the rest was QS euro 5W40 which is actually so thin it's basically a 30 weight oil. All this is to say it doesn't matter that much. We aren't talking about brake fluid. For an RB I would recommend a high ZDDP oil because it doesn't use rollers in the interface between the cam and valve, but a 5W30 or 5W40 is fine to use for street use. The 10W60 guidance really only applies if you're getting it hot and pushing the engine hard.
×
×
  • Create New...