Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, soon as id be trailering a skyline to trackdays thought i would post this question.

new P plate laws stop you from driving any v8, unless you have a certificate allowing you to due to special reson such as work, from what ive heard.

does any one know, or can anyone find out if i would legally be able to own a v8 as my tow car.

when i say v8 i dont meen like a sporty v8, i mean a bmw 535i or 540i with a weight of like 1600 and a power of 170kw or there abouts.

any ideas, theories would be great

Cheers

Gezza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242812-p-plater-with-v8-tow-car/
Share on other sites

if u wanna drive a v8.. you gotta send vicroads a letter for an exemption..

Theres like 3 ways to get it..

1. your using it as a work vehicle..

2. you're going through hardship and the vehicle was passed down through ur family..

3. i forgot. ;]

lol 5 series bimmer as a tow car?

the laws may be nonsense, but its probably not worth the hassle trying to go down this path. not to mention a bmw as a tow car. have fun with the maintenance.

youre best going for a diesel, 6 cyl ute. it may be a bomb, but if youre really looking for a "tow car" and not a way to cheat the laws to get a bmw, a ute is a much better option.

For a dirty tow car, why not a dirty ford or commodore wagon - I navigated for two different guys who used one or the other, they are cheap cars, reasonably reliable, 6 cyl with -plenty of torque for towing, cheap to buy and repair if you need to (unlike a bmw, and lets face it, you will be spending all your spare cash on a track car), heaps of room for spare parts/tools, and when you get to the track - no one looks at the tow cars...

lol yeah a beamer would be a bit precious but its for my daily driver aswell, as wen i put my 33 on the track i am completly with out a car. that is why the nicer than usual tow car.

just contemplatig my nicer options, thanks guys.

they will exempt you for work purposes as stated.. is it you job? No, then they won't exempt you.. and yeah they will know you are using it as a daily.. which means you are trying to loop hole the law.. they won't do it

I had a subaru liberty with a surprising amount of torque for towing, I pulled a few trailers full of crap / cars etc up hills and things with no problems, and it was only a 2.2l manual, good car too, nice drive and never had any problems - I would consider another if I needed a tow car/daily

Exactly. You don't need a massive engine to tow. One of my mates used to tow a HQ race car with an E30 BMW 323i. Old 6 cylinder Falcodores will tow something well enough.

Diesels are exempt from the turbo restrictions, so you get an old 4WD or something as well.

And the 540i was meant to be "sporty". It's not meant to be a HSV competitor, but in BMW's lineup it would be akin to a V8 Calais.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...