Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cleaned out the garage and found a bunch of stuff....

Std 33 GTR stabiliser bars front and rear - $125

Std 33 GTR turbos done 85,000km's on standard boost - $300

Full std 33 GTR exhaust (dump pipes, front pipes and front cat back), great for compliance work - $550, or can separate if necesary.

Std 33 GTR afm's - $100

Pickup only - gold coast / tweed heads area.

Pm me.

post-17244-1225519140_thumb.jpg

post-17244-1225519198_thumb.jpg

post-17244-1225519261_thumb.jpg

post-17244-1225519311_thumb.jpg

post-17244-1225519366_thumb.jpg

post-17244-1225519412_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242822-33-gtr-garage-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

hey mate im really keen on the sway bars mainly the rear one anychance of measuring the thickness of them both and how much to post to victoria , mebourne 3150 thanks mate tom 0401035221 P.S if you find out soon i can transfer the money asap

sorry...don't know the size of the bars.....they are just std gtr stabiliser bars. my guess would be 20mm considering the upgraded whiteline ones are 24mm. it will cost around 30 bucks for delivery to vic.....so i'll do them delivered for $100.

exhaust sold pending payment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
×
×
  • Create New...