Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just had some work done on my R33 GTR. I had the transfer case totally rebuilt and ended up having to replace the clutch and flywheel as the old ones were stuffed. Both pressure plate and flywheel had stress fracture cracks throughout so it was unsafe. I replaced them with an OS Giken Twin plate and on their recommendation do the pull to push conversion which gives the pedal a much more progressive engagement feel. I must say it's pretty good for an 800 ps rated clutch! ( I went with the "C" model).

Anyways, I got the car back last night. When I accellerate hard there is a vibration somewhere on the car as you can feel it throughout the whole car. It is only a slight vibration but definately noticable. It is worst up to about 60 kph where it then smooths out. It primarily does it on acceleration as I can cruise all the way up to freeway speeds without noticing it.

The shop did notice that my front shafts were very stiff as I don't think the front Atessa has been working for quite some time. This is the first time it has worked since I've owned the car (about 1 year).

The shop and I agreed I'll drive it today and tomorrow and see if it is just the drive train needing to loosen up.

Any ideas of what else I should check?

Appreciate the input!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/242878-req-ideas-vibration/
Share on other sites

yeah, the transfer has never been right. The plates were stuffed and the housing and shaft. Got blue hot. Ended up replacing all the inners.

drove it to the mall just now and the rear diff is so stiff it is acting like a locked diff. Around tight full lock turn the car lurches as the rears lock up. It's never done that before.

Does the dash gauge for the AWD system show any action when the vibration happens?

And if so, how's the front diff?

The rear diff will do that vibration when turning it will locks very hard, sorta normal for a GTR diff, also happens if the wrong fluid was used in the diff...

Oh, any chance you can PM me the cost of that transfer case rebuild? My transfer case also died recently, it wasn't the clutch plates though, it was a shaft inside the case...

Dash gauge works fine, reads just a little of the bottom when you take off. If you take off hard it does give a but more, but never above 1/2 way.

The front diff previously was found to be dry. I opened it up but found that it wasn't worn too bad. I didn't find any noticeable scratches or anything in the teeth. Maybe there was an odd wear pattern put on it and now that there is power going to the front it could be causing a vibration.

I'm going to take it for a bit of a cruise now and see how it goes.

thanks guys, keep the ideas coming.

UPDATE:

The shop had an interesting thought. Are my diff's the same ratio? I know my motor has been replaced so could the front diff be a differient ratio? If they were then maybe that's why the box was stuffed in the first place. They are going to do a test @ 50/50 on the Dyno to see if the ratios are the same. God I hope they are.

Also I took it for a drive for about 80 k's sunday. It drives fine at speed - no significant vibration. There is a little vibration at 60 kph cruise but that's the only spot it seems to do it on cruise. Had it up to 110 yesterday and was smooth as at that speed. It seems to have dissapated to about 1/2 as bad as when I first picked up the car.

So maybe it is just a stiff front drive shaft getting worked in with power for the first time.

Anyways, hopefully the shop can check it out and tell me if it is OK.

Thanks for the input guys.

The shop confirmed today that I seem to have 4.30 rear and 4.11 front - wow that's bad!

So going to have to decide which route to go. I'd like to go the 4.30 in front but a) they have to find a source for the gears as they are rare for the GTR's and b) costs twice as much.

hmmm....

Well, wanted to let you fellas know what's up with the drivetrain issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...