Psi Parts Project Car Log

[PSI Parts]

I haven't updated this in ages mainly because of a lack of pictures. So I'll kick off again with the fuel upgrade, that will finally be finished soon.

You can also view updates on our website http://www.psiparts.com.au/project.htm

The overall goal for the fuel set-up was to create both a functional and capable system that also looked the goods within the boot. Although we could have mounted the fuel pump outside of the car to reduce noise and smell, it was decided to keep it in the boot to minimise any damage to fuel lines from the constant bumps of street driving. To ensure that fuel vapour would not be leaked into the cabin, Earls Teflon (Speed-Flex) Hose and appropriate fittings will be used throughout, and a clear perspex enclosure will ensure as much noise and any possible leaks stay contained.

Working out injector size to support your RWkW Goal

Injector Size (cc) = A / (B x C x D)

A = Projected RWkW Figure

B = 0.8 (80% of Maximum Duty Cycle)

C = 0.85 (Typical 85% of flywheel power is transferred to the wheels)

D = 0.746 (Convert HP to RWKw)

Injector Size (cc) = 350 / (0.8 x 0.85 x 0.746)

Injector Size (cc) = 350 / 0.507

Injector Size (cc) = 690.335

Injector Size (cc) = 720 (Always round up to next size available)

Note: This calculation only works for Unleaded Fuel, if you are planning to run E85 you should factor in around 30% increase in flow.

The first step was to sit down and design how the fuel system will work. This may take a while if you are trying to run a complicated setup or want to factor in future power upgrades. Below is what we came up with. From here you can also start to plan what sort of fittings you will need and the desired quantity. Although screw on fittings are not needed, we always approach by the addage of doing a job properly will save you both time and hassles in the long run.

The boot was stripped bare for work to begin

Once the boot was stripped, we set about calculating all the different Fittings and Brackets required. We also decided to go for a Bosch 044 (700hp, 5Bar) External Fuel Pump due to its reliability, along with a 1.5L Surge tank to ensure no fuel starvation problems occur during hard cornering.

Earls Fittings and Surge Tank dummy fitted to check clearances

Now that we have an idea of where everything will sit, we set about cutting the braided hose to the required length.

Hose Ends fitted, Fuel Sender lid with Rubber Seals and Fuel Hard Lines

Once all the fittings are attached to the lines, came the job of cutting the fuel sender metal plate to allow the lines to run from the lift pump to surge tank, and return from surge tank to the tank. we also had to join the braided lines to the hard lines that run underneath the car with a conventional style worm clamp.

The MDF base is cutout and Carpet is attached

Pictures Coming...

The wiring for the Fuel Pump was done via a Relay off the battery to ensure that there is always sufficient power, without the risk of over powering the pump or causing harm to the battery. If you are unfamiliar with electrical wiring please consult a professional. Once the MDF platform that will hold the fuel system is in place we checked the placement of all parts again, then a similar colour carpet to the rest of the boot is glued on and all parts screwed into place. To complete the professional look we were after, we used rubber grommets for where the fuel lines would pass through the boot lining.

An enclosure is made to ensure any fumes or spills are contained and are not allowed to splash into the rest of the boot and cabin. The enclosure will also help with any fumes that might leak from the fittings, along with protecting from any objects that could potentially fly around the boot during normal commuting duties, as the car is not a dedicated track car.

Pictures Coming...

[PSI Parts]

*Repost due to server issue*

Today I took the car out to Wakefield to test a few things, and ended up conducting some impromptu crash testing of our products

I also have a few new additions that I'll do a write up on soon so stay tuned.

[FloydWestwood]

ouch - unlucky mate!!

[ssxRicho]

no damage to what was behind it i hope....

[PSI Parts]

no damage to what was behind it i hope....

No, I was very lucky not to damage any of the headlights, fenders or intercooler.That's racing though

[PSI Parts]

Follow the Cars progress at: http://www.psiparts.com.au/project.htm

As the car's power was going to be increased, so is the need to pull it up. Therefore an upgrade in all of the brakes components was necessary. We chose an OEM upgrade for ease of install (use the stock master cylinder) and for reduced costs compared to complete aftermarket options. Keeping it within the family, we went for the R33 GTR Brembo Brakes Front and Rear.

Parts Upgraded:

- ADR Approved Braided Brake Lines Front and Rear

- Brembo Brake Fluid

- RDA Turbo Groove Rotors (Slotted and Dimpled) Front and Rear

- RDA Red Stuff Pads for an Aggressive Bite (Street/Track)

Before

After

After conducting a few light stops from 60km/h to start the bed-in process, followed by harder stops the pads had seated in nicely. It was then time to try a few 100km/h stops in a controlled environment. Obviously the larger rotor size has made a massive difference in the braking distance however our main objective was to ensure that brake fade did not occur, which can only really be tested at the track

An 'Off the Streets' Wakefield track day provided a perfect chance to give the brakes a good working over and test their limits. As this set-up is by no means extreme we started off taking things easy and then gradually working towards full stops from 200km/h coming off the main straight. They performed very well to pull up a car that weighs in at around 1300kg. After 5 hard laps there was no sign of brake fade and depending on how hard you are driving the ABS didn't seem intrusive. Brake fade might be an issue for extended laps however monitoring things like oil temperature usually restrict how many laps you will do in a row. Brake dust was also very low with these pads, however I believe that there is room for a much harder brake pad come the next track day.

The rotors were chosen mainly because of price and the fact they are only dimpled (to keep strength within the rotor, as cross drilling has been known to crack during hard driving). Time will tell if the rotors will wear down quickly and whether or not its best to invest in a more expensive rotor that might potentially last longer, however the pad used obviously has a massive part in this. More on this as time goes on. Overall this was a great upgrade as it's very easy to fit and all items are straight from the shelf.

[evil_weevil]

how did u manage that @ wakie mate?

that sucks

and what times is the car upto now @ wakie?

[PSI Parts]

how did u manage that @ wakie mate?

that sucks

and what times is the car upto now @ wakie?

Came out of Turn 8 a little sideways in damp conditions. Was oversteering a bit and I continued to put the power down and started a 4 wheel slide. Backed off a little and it did straighten up but got the right rear on the mud and lost control from there onto the grass. Tore it off nicely haha. Surprisingly didn't get a single cop look twice on the drive back to Sydney, even had 5 driver training guys in an unmarked car come inspect the car in the garage before I left.

Doing 1.11's on the day (first time I've been there) however had quite a few issues with the synchro's and excessive oil breathing. The Federal Semi-Slicks were not really providing the kind of grip I expected, however that might be due to them sitting in storage for a while, as I went overseas for 6 months. I just got a Haltech/Racepak dash so once that goes in I should have some good data to analyse and get times down.

[PSI Parts]

I have been playing around in the interior for about a week now and this is what I have been up to.

As we purchased the IQ3 a little while ago, it was about time it actually went into the car. We had a few problems to start with, which ended up being the firmware version on the ECU needed updating and the version of Halwin software we were using also needed to be changed. The hardest thing about the whole process was trying to get the serial to USB adaptor to work correctly. Anyway once this was all sorted out the dash lit up for the first time While this was happening I got a spare factory instrument cluster surround and made a blanking plate on the back using some 1mm fibreglass. I was tempted to use Carbon Fibre but want to re-do the whole interior trimming in a nice flat black to avoid sun glare of the clear/gloss coat. One that was made, I used the dash template to make the required holes in the back panel and mounted the unit. I'm also going to integrate indicator lights, high beam, handbrake and two momentary switches (to toggle pages and change dash settings without the use of a laptop) into the dash panel. I have only temporarily bolted the dash in as I just couldn't wait to see what it would look like inside the car. Here are some pics:

[trent26]

hey mate... great work, looking awsome....

just wondering if your coilovers are the greddy type s's if so where did you get them from??

thanx

[PSI Parts]

hey mate... great work, looking awsome....

just wondering if your coilovers are the greddy type s's if so where did you get them from??

thanx

Thanks

Yeah they are GReddy Type S, the type R which has an external reservoir is also available now too. I got mine from GReddy Oceania. See attachment for the Specs.

suspension_brochure.pdf

[PM-R33]

Very nice guys, dash turned out good.

[PSI Parts]

Well the time has come to bite the bullet and do a full engine rebuild. The current engine is spewing out heaps of oil from the catch can and is generally showing pretty poor signs of compression. So without further ado here is the specs list that we are going to be building. I will be updating this thread with pictures and comments throughout the build. I will also be putting up prices of the build so that people who are thinking about building an engine have a real appreciation for how much they are in for. All the engine work will be conducted at Sabbadin Automotive in Melbourne. Work will start in around a months time and will continue for some time as this is going to be a very long and drawn out build due to not having any time constraints and wanting to do things properly. The aim for the car is to have around 340rwkw, with good response and be suitable for timed track events. It will run dual maps for E85 and pump 98. The suspension will also be getting a few tweaks to ensure that it handles with all that power. So sit back and enjoy what I can assure you is going to be a roller-coaster ride.

ARP Head Studs

ARP Main Studs

ARP Exhaust Manifold Bolts

ACL Race Series Pistons

ACL Race Series Main Bearings

ACL Race Series Big End/Rod Bearings

ACL Race Series Head Gasket

Nissan N1 Oil Pump

Nissan N1 Water Pump

Nissan Gasket Kit

Tomei Oil Gallery Orrifice

JUN Oil Pump Crank Collar

Spool Conrods

Tial V44 Wastegate (Still debating one or two wastegates)

6 Boost Twin Scroll Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)

Garrett GT3582R (0.78 rear, 0.70 front) Twin scroll, V Band

[PSI Parts]

First post updated with the current specs list (I left out a fair bit, as I'm pretty sure nobody will care )

[johnbarry88]

hey mate sounds good but 1 44mm gate will do the job with ease

[PSI Parts]

Yeah, according to my wastegate calculations (see below) I need a 42mm gate for the intended boost pressure and power figure. It was more of a factor of separating the two exhaust streams completely.

A = Power figure in rwkw

B = Power figure in bhp

C = Calculated Wastegate size in mm

D = Intended boost pressure in PSI

E = Boost pressure in bar

F = Calculated Wastegate size in mm with boost correction

A = 350

B = A * 1.3 *1.2

B = 350 * 1.3 * 1.2 = 546

C = B / 11

C = 546 / 11 = 49.63

E = D / 14.5

E = 24 / 14.5 = 1.655

F = C / E * 1.4

F = 49.63 / 1.655 * 1.4 = 41.98

[johnbarry88]

seems like uve done some research but calculations arent always correct. 350kw is only 470hp but "higher than normal" boost im quite sure there are many of ppl out there using the similar size gate that make well over that power range

[PSI Parts]

Yeah I know, but then comes the argument of: more power = more boost = smaller wastegate.

[PSI Parts]

Just realised I haven't put up a picture of the engine bay. So here is a before shot and a few after. Keep in mind that this will totally change with the new set-up (a bit of carbon is going to be added )

[PSI Parts]

A few pictures of the GReddy radiator to help with track temperatures. It's a perfect fir (which you would expect from GReddy). And the advantage of running the stock shroud makes it a breeze to install. After all I have read about how much a clutch fan takes from an engine I am of the opinion that switching to thermo's is really unnecessary.