Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it's been a long time since this got updated, mainly due to the lack of interest I thought this thread had.

There has been quite a lot of changes since the last time I wrote in this thread. The major ones being that the car has seen the track twice and identified quite a few weak links. So looking at changing things like the tyres (RE55/A050) and suspension (Cusco) over the coming weeks as I start to get serious with time attack.

Here are some of the things I've been up to:

- Removed sound deadening (there is very LITTLE weight loss with this done)

- Re-wired a LOT of the engine bay to make things cleaner

- Removed the Fan Shroud and painted the clutch fan black

- Changed the Earls fittings on the Throttle Body

- Installed a whole bunch of new bolts and cone washers (I have no connection to this company but I thought their offerings and service was excellent. http://www.probolt-australia.com/)

- Installed new rocker cover baffles

- Installed a Turbo beanie (after one track day I am unsure if this will stay due to water line issues)

- Fitted the new matte black Work XT7 rims

- Started planning for the half cage

- Purchased Willans Aluminum 4 Point Harness (I am in LOVE with this harness)

- Deutsch connectors for wiring of the Racepak Dash (Along with the bloody expensive MSD Tool for the pin connectors)

- Fabricated a metal Washer bottle

- Changed to Penrite 10 Tenths Racing Oil

I'm sure there are heaps more.

Looking at getting Race Render 2 or TrackVision Software and an Replay XD 1080 camera. Keen to hear if people have used this stuff before and their opinions. Also want to hear what direction we should be taking the car next, as there are some very creative and smart minds in these crazy forums.

Edited by PSI Parts
  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

any chance of getting some pics of your newly installed bolts and cone washer combos...

and a list of sizes or part number...

I been looking at that bolt site and trying to work out what I need for what and finding it quite intense...

The photos I took aren't very good. But I'll endeavor to get some proper ones this weekend.

For reference though, this is what I got:

M8 x 25mm - Flanged Hex Head for hood latch bracket (LBWHX825RBK)

M6 x 16mm - Allen Bolt for Fenders/Fuse Box (LPB616BK)

M6 x 25mm - Allen Bolt for CAS/Windscreen Controller (LCS615BK)

19mm OD Cone Washer for use with above M6 bolts (LWAC6-19BK)

M6 x 15mm - Countersunk Bolt for Headlight Bracket (LPB616BK)

25mm OD Cone Washer for Headlight Bracket (LWAPB625BK)

+ more for other little bits and pieces.

Let me know if you have any other questions in regards to the bolts.

Looking at this paint for the rollcage and rear of B pillar

http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/kbs-rustseal

Goes on with a paint brush and gives a smooth sprayed on look once dried, along with all of the rust and scratch resistance as well.

  • 8 years later...

Blast from the past. I haven't been on these forums for almost a decade and came back to reminisce and remind me what we actually did to the car as it's been driven less than 100km in past 5 years as life and kids take their toll on hobbies. 

The time has come to sell this car but just wanted to give a shout out to the community. Not that anyone will probably ever read this. 

I also found a wayback link of the old PSI Parts (Business was shut down years ago) site: http://web.archive.org/web/20121105054236/http://www.psiparts.com.au/project.htm that made me laugh how far things have come. 

For Sale Post coming soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...