Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if its miniture just touch it up...

if its major then you really HAVE to paint the entire panel to make it look stock. (panel doesn't mean the entire side of the car, maybe just the door, or just the front guard etc...)

probably about $100 - 150 per panel

A GOOD paint shop will charge around $300 for a panel or front/rear bar. This includes blending the paint into the adjacent panels. You can probably get a quick respray for less but you will probably notice the difference in colour.

You can try one of those scratch repair places, but in my experience they will only touch non-metallic colours, because they can't get the touch-up paint to blend properly on metallic paint.

You can also touch it up yourself, which I've done on mine for a couple of scratches it's picked up. It's easily noticable if you look at them, but if you just look at the car overall your eyes don't get drawn towards them and you can't really notice.

I got a bit of leftover paint from my respray. It's not proper touch up paint, and as such I can't use that Langka stuff to rub it back with. I just dabbed some on, let it dry, then dabbed a bit more on, etc. It's now almost flush and so harder to notice. But because it's metallic, it'd be noticable even if I did get it flush.

If you want proper touch up paint, try the various auto parts shops. You might need the paint code off your car, or maybe just telling them it's a silver Skyline might be enough for them to find the right one.

Originally posted by JimX

A GOOD paint shop will charge around $300 for a panel or front/rear bar. This includes blending the paint into the adjacent panels.  

Can you still notice the difference in colour for blending the paint?

and how much for respray in white?(milk white???i dont know the term)

A full respray is usually around $3000 or so. More if you want funky colours (pearl etc) or a more than average amount of coats.

I've had experience of a well-done paint blend on my previous car, and I have to say that YOU will notice it, but no one else will until you point it out :( The paint in the resprayed area just looks a little darker/newer, but unless you are very carefully looking for it, you won't notice it.

At one point I managed to dent the rear passenger door fairly badly, and I replaced it with one from a wrecker of the same colour without respraying it. The guy that bought the car looked the car over very carefully but didn't notice the colour change from either the paint blend OR the door change, even though to me both stuck out like a sore thumb.

BG Automotive at Meadowbank is where I got my Skyline resprayed after I got rear-ended. Phone number 9807 6502 or 0414 842 652. I think it should usually be done in around 2 weeks or less.

The place I got my Commodore done at is out of business, but he was also quite good.

padboy if u want to get the right colour paint for ur car go to vg paints at girraween . u need to take with u the colour code ( u 'll find on the cars id plate under the bonnet ) and ur fuel filler door , ask for acrylic paint they will mix the paint for u and for a small fee will match it as well ( i/2 lt mix and match silver is $25 - 30 ) u can use the paint to touch up u r scratches and stone chips . if u want to paint a panel if u never done it before dont try u will stuff it up .

jimx when a pro paints a panel and blends ( u can only blend metalic paint ) u should never notice the diff in the colour if u do its not a good job , i have done plenty and u can never see the diff but metalic paint u have to blend and then u give it a coat of clear to cover the whole panel .

when it comes to painting i/4 panels is more difficult cause u cant paint the whole panel u have to blow it off in to the edge of the roof and as the paint gets a bit old u 'll see where they blow it off , if u try to buf it there it will get worse the more u buf the more u 'll see it . the guys that do touch up jobs its crap u try to polish there and u'll see an edge the more u polish the worse it gets thats why u paint full panels thats the proper way of doing it

touching up is like cheating if u want to sell the car .

Originally posted by wrxhoon

jimx when a pro paints a panel and blends ( u can only blend metalic paint ) u should never notice the diff in the colour if u do its not a good job , i have done plenty and u can never see the diff but metalic paint u have to blend and then u give it a coat of clear to cover the whole panel .

The thing is a keen eye can always spot the difference between old and new paint. Even if it's the exact same colour, you'll never get it perfect. I can always spot resprayed panels, unless the old paint was only like 1-2 years old. The old paint on my Commodore was 5 or 6 years old, and there's no way to get new paint to look the exact same as paint that old. If nothing else it was the only panel without any stone chips on it :(

Like I said, the guy that bought my car looked over it very very carefully from all angles in broad daylight and he couldn't tell. It's probably just one of those things where if you know it's there, you can tell, but if you don't, you can't.

padboy by all means buy the paint to do small touch ups with a very fine brush , u will always see it though but better than having the chips or a small scratch there .

if u wnt a proper job done take it to a pro ( unless u done it before ) and have the whole panel pained , i hope that clears this up for u .

jimx a good painter will match the paint to the old one it doent matter of the age . its not going to be the same colour thats why u blend it in . iven if its the same paint u put on the car the day before and another person paints the panel next to it with that same paint chances are that it will be diff ( like darker or lighter ) the diff u'll see where the panels join.thats the reason when u repair the whole say front door u blend in the rear door and the guard . so u paint full colout the repaired door then full colour the front guard near where the door joins and as u go forward the u put less paint until at the end and near the bonnet no paint at all . u do the same with the rear door then u put a clear coat on the 2 doors and the guard . if the colour was close u can never see the diff as it is blende in with the original paint , got it ?

believe me i have done plenty of them , metalics are easy to match cause u can blend u cant do that with solid colous though .

  • 2 weeks later...

just respray the full panel. but dont do what i did and then scratch it on the side of your house a week later and have to do it again. my mate is a panel beater so its cheap for me but twice in one week is still not cool. about $100 a pop (normally $200 for a door).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...