Jump to content
SAU Community

My Dads Going To Be In Tokyo Next Week... Need Shopping Advice


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

So my dad told me he is going to Tokyo for 4 days end of next week for business. He will be staying in the region of Akasaka if thats any help... i would prefer somewhere easily accessiable from there...

He offered to buy me some things from Tokyo for my R33 ...

So i was thinking Boost controller and things alike since its small and easy to bring back...

In particular im after the HKS EVC V (5)...As i recently got my SAFC 2.. so after a boost controller to up the bosot when i tune it... Can you guys let me know some automotive shops around Tokyo? Address would be the best so i can direct him exactly where to go...

Also on that note... can you guys pass me the address to the NISMO shop.. seems to have lots of goodies there... Was thinking maybe a NISMO clutch for the r33 if they arent too heavy to carry?

Cheers guys!!

Brendan

Edited by br3ndan

You wont find many performance parts at NISMO factory if any.

The best place to go is Crystal which is in Chiba. You will need to catch the train to Tokyo station then change to Chiba, then get the light rail to Sports Center.

You will go down an escalator out of the station, cross the road and go right. Walk for about 20mins and Crystal will be on your left.

EDIT: Are you sure its not Asakusa?

You wont find many performance parts at NISMO factory if any.

The best place to go is Crystal which is in Chiba. You will need to catch the train to Tokyo station then change to Chiba, then get the light rail to Sports Center.

You will go down an escalator out of the station, cross the road and go right. Walk for about 20mins and Crystal will be on your left.

EDIT: Are you sure its not Asakusa?

Thanks! Ill look on google maps for that place... then i can show my dad exactly where it is...

Asakusa.. probably.. prob just my spelling is off!

Thanks for your help!!

Does Crystal have a website?

no it is akasaka. which is completely different place to asukusa dave. lol. slap.gif akasaka is a nice suburb in tokyo (minato-ku). near roppongi, azabu etc. lots of embassies and the like there.

no way will your dad be able to bring you a clutch mate. they weigh 20kg+ inc flywheel.

not many places will have stuff like that in stock, and I'm not sure your dad will want to spend 4hrs+ trekking to chiba and back to save you $50-$100 on parts. to be honest it's really not worth it for him. and it will take at least that long. even if he knows exactly where he's going and is good with trains etc it's still a fair old hike from akasaka all the way to the outskirts of chiba.

you wont save much at all by buying 1 or 2 things retail in japan that you can easily order online via greenline, nengun etc. basically all you'll be saving is the postage cost, which on an EBC is maybe $40 tops. and it is a fair ask on your dad to spend a lot of time trekking around and trying to buy parts. plus you have the cost of converting your AUD to YEN in cash which is always a lower rate than if you were buying online. so in the end it may even cost the same as just buying on-line.

If I was you I'd ask him to buy you something japanese that you cannot easily buy from aus. take advantage of him actually being in japan and get some thing japanese. maybe a 3 litre can of asahi, or some wasabi flavour potato chips, or some hand made rice snacks, or if you're interested in some japanese manga or figurines etc he can easily get that stuff in akihabara which is quite near akasaka. i dunno, maybe an ornamental sword. that's just off the top of my head, but there is heaps of cool stuff he could get you from japan. but parts, well any decent parts shop it at least 1 hour from central tokyo (where your dad is) and that's each way, and the savings will not be that great just to buy one or two things.

Thanks for the advice beer baron!

My dad used to live in Japan back in the day.. so he is keen to do some travelling around the Tokyo area which is why he asked me about whether i wanted anything...

Sucks about the clutch... haha.. nvm, ill get that one here.

Ill see how he goes in his travels... i told him if he can get the hks evc 5 then thats good, but if he cant then it doesnt matter. Greenline etc are good but i heard postage is long... if my dad can get it that means ill have it by end of next week ! =D

Either way il be sure to ask him to get me the model car of the r35 GTR =D

Cheers again guys! Appreciate the quick replys!

Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...