Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Actuator --> Rb25

gotRICE?

By gotRICE?,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey man. Yeah all went perfect.

Just unlug and un-bolt the solenoid. Have the Actuator vac line running straight to the Intercooler pipe (where it is factory) and the line that comes of the intake pipe, either get a blank for it or put a bolt in it. Whallah!

  • 1 year later...
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Hey all, sorry to bring up an old thread but it seemed like the best place to ask for help.

I'm wanting to get an R32 actuator and stick it in my R33... question is, how do I actually replace the actuator?

Is it a simple matter of say, removing my intercooler piping and then I'll be able to get to it? Or is more work than that needed to expose what I need to get to?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You can get at it with the intercooler piping on.. at a pinch.

Take the circplip off the end of the rod that connects to the wastegate flapper, pull of the VAC line, then remove the two bolts holding the actuator to the turbo.

Reverse to put the R32 on :P But, only running a single vac line from the intercooler piping to the actuator. Blocking off the hose that went to the intake tube. And removing the boost solenoid.

  • 3 weeks later...
mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

I picked up the 32 actuator last weekend and popped it in, easy as pie. It was exactly as gotrice said... just circlip off, remove bolts and vacuum line... done!

I'm only hitting 9psi or so though... and that's reading from the stock spot on the back of the plenum.

Has anyone had that happen? I'm gonna hook up the solenoid again this weekend and see if I can get to about 12 or if it'll only get 10-11, so confused.

  • 3 months later...
KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted

Does anyone have a picture of the stock R32 actuator available, and where it's located in the engine bay. Hope I don't appear too stupid, but is the actuator and solenoid two different things? or do people refer to the same thing by different names. I've read the thread about grounding the stock R33 solenoid wire too achieve a permanent high boost mode. Just wondering about the actuator side of things, especially this thread here. I like the idea of 10psi and am nearing all my stage 1 mods being completed.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)
Yep they are two different things :)

The solenoid:

boostwire.jpg

The acutator:

ActuatorShieldstockSmall.jpg

Obviously the bit on the right :P

If it was me, id find an r32 actuator and ditch the solenoid all together :) Thats what i did.

Thank's for those :)

I'm weighing up a few things when it comes to upping the boost. But had another question.

Will installing a FMIC increase my boost pressure? I've read a few things where this might happen due to the increased airflow. Currently I have the stock SMIC installed.

Edited by KrazyKong
KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted (edited)

I was aware of the "increased" lag when mounting a FMIC. Was curious as I have read folks also had more boost showing on their gauges after mounting a FMIC too.

My goal is to get the FMIC installed, then be running at 10psi. So am working out whether I should do the R32 actuator, or go with a t-piece. I quite like the R32 actuator idea though. Seems like a nice efficient way of getting to 10psi without splicing in t-pieces and so on. Also I'm more likely to eliminate boost creep due to having no t-piece setup right?

Will see if I can wrangle up a R32 actuator. As far as the solenoid goes, that only gets disconnected if I go with the R32 actuator right? otherwise I can ground it now to get 7psi I believe. That's where I read about the increased psi from installing a FMIC I think. Guys would ground the solenoid which should give 7psi, but in actuality they were getting 10psi due to the higher flow.

Edited by KrazyKong
gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

I bought my FMIC a few months back but have been preoccupied with other facets of the car. Now that I'm close to finishing all of those, it's FMIC time. I have a return flow ARC one. I don't know the model, but it's more of a square shaped unit than say a stock GTR FMIC one which is not as high, but wider. I'm told it is a very good unit however as it's Japanese made and ARC is a good brand. It also looks to be in great condition.

I have a turbo back exhaust. 3" to the cat, and slightly larger from the cat back. So hmmm, what would you do in my position then rice? Would there be any difference in the way I get 10 psi? R32 actuator vs grounding solenoid?

And if I get 10psi through grounding the solenoid due to having a turbo back exhaust, wouldn't I then get more than 10 with the r32 actuator?

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

dont do that. think, if the sloenoid takes the boost from 5psi (stock r33 actuator set level) to 7/8psi. add that to your 10 psi r32 actuator, and you are spiking to 12/13psi. unless you want to

  • 1 month later...
OoskylineoO Experienced

OoskylineoO

Posted
Posted

sorry to hi jack, recently installed a rb20 actuator and now its overboosting to about 16+psi !. I've been reading and believe i hooked up everything correctly. I'm puzzled now :S. Current mods, 3'' bellmouth and zorst, turbotech boost T set to ~12psi and a nistune remap.

Prior to this problem I had another 1, my boost would drop from 12psi to about 10psi only in high revs (5500-redline), the actuator was suspected so i replaced with rb20 1 and now this :)

Any ideas guys?, only thing i changed during isntalltion was extending the vac line from actuator to boost T to cooler pipe to reach. :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...