R32 Actuator --> Rb25

[gotRICE?]

Hey man. Yeah all went perfect.

Just unlug and un-bolt the solenoid. Have the Actuator vac line running straight to the Intercooler pipe (where it is factory) and the line that comes of the intake pipe, either get a blank for it or put a bolt in it. Whallah!

[mosquitocoils]

Hey all, sorry to bring up an old thread but it seemed like the best place to ask for help.

I'm wanting to get an R32 actuator and stick it in my R33... question is, how do I actually replace the actuator?

Is it a simple matter of say, removing my intercooler piping and then I'll be able to get to it? Or is more work than that needed to expose what I need to get to?

[gotRICE?]

You can get at it with the intercooler piping on.. at a pinch.

Take the circplip off the end of the rod that connects to the wastegate flapper, pull of the VAC line, then remove the two bolts holding the actuator to the turbo.

Reverse to put the R32 on But, only running a single vac line from the intercooler piping to the actuator. Blocking off the hose that went to the intake tube. And removing the boost solenoid.

[mosquitocoils]

Ok wow, that's pretty simple hahaha. I'll try and source one when I get a chance and report back here

[wisey18]

Yeh it's real easy. Only have to move the airbox lid/intake to get to it. Took me like 20 mins to replace.

[mosquitocoils]

I picked up the 32 actuator last weekend and popped it in, easy as pie. It was exactly as gotrice said... just circlip off, remove bolts and vacuum line... done!

I'm only hitting 9psi or so though... and that's reading from the stock spot on the back of the plenum.

Has anyone had that happen? I'm gonna hook up the solenoid again this weekend and see if I can get to about 12 or if it'll only get 10-11, so confused.

[wisey18]

I only got 10psi with mine.

[KrazyKong]

Does anyone have a picture of the stock R32 actuator available, and where it's located in the engine bay. Hope I don't appear too stupid, but is the actuator and solenoid two different things? or do people refer to the same thing by different names. I've read the thread about grounding the stock R33 solenoid wire too achieve a permanent high boost mode. Just wondering about the actuator side of things, especially this thread here. I like the idea of 10psi and am nearing all my stage 1 mods being completed.

[gotRICE?]

Yep they are two different things

The solenoid:

The acutator:

Obviously the bit on the right

If it was me, id find an r32 actuator and ditch the solenoid all together Thats what i did.

[KrazyKong]

Yep they are two different things

The solenoid:

The acutator:

Obviously the bit on the right

If it was me, id find an r32 actuator and ditch the solenoid all together Thats what i did.

Thank's for those

I'm weighing up a few things when it comes to upping the boost. But had another question.

Will installing a FMIC increase my boost pressure? I've read a few things where this might happen due to the increased airflow. Currently I have the stock SMIC installed.

Edited May 13, 2010 by KrazyKong

[Galois]

from what ive read it'll increase your lag, not your boost. but your air temp will be lower, which means higher density, which means more O2, which means bigger bang...

so is that an r32 actuator above?

[gotRICE?]

The increased "lag" isnt noticeable. So dont let that alter your judgment

Yep thats an R32 Actuator. I gave it a squirt with black paint before i put it all together.

[KrazyKong]

I was aware of the "increased" lag when mounting a FMIC. Was curious as I have read folks also had more boost showing on their gauges after mounting a FMIC too.

My goal is to get the FMIC installed, then be running at 10psi. So am working out whether I should do the R32 actuator, or go with a t-piece. I quite like the R32 actuator idea though. Seems like a nice efficient way of getting to 10psi without splicing in t-pieces and so on. Also I'm more likely to eliminate boost creep due to having no t-piece setup right?

Will see if I can wrangle up a R32 actuator. As far as the solenoid goes, that only gets disconnected if I go with the R32 actuator right? otherwise I can ground it now to get 7psi I believe. That's where I read about the increased psi from installing a FMIC I think. Guys would ground the solenoid which should give 7psi, but in actuality they were getting 10psi due to the higher flow.

Edited May 13, 2010 by KrazyKong

[Galois]

sorry to ask, how does the t piece work?

[gotRICE?]

It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

[KrazyKong]

It works out pretty similar.

Grounding the wire will indeed give you 10 or so PSI if you have a turbo back exhaust etc, and so will the R32 actuator.

I just used it for cleanliness.

I guess it depends on the FMIC you choose. I didnt notice any change in throttle response personally.

I bought my FMIC a few months back but have been preoccupied with other facets of the car. Now that I'm close to finishing all of those, it's FMIC time. I have a return flow ARC one. I don't know the model, but it's more of a square shaped unit than say a stock GTR FMIC one which is not as high, but wider. I'm told it is a very good unit however as it's Japanese made and ARC is a good brand. It also looks to be in great condition.

I have a turbo back exhaust. 3" to the cat, and slightly larger from the cat back. So hmmm, what would you do in my position then rice? Would there be any difference in the way I get 10 psi? R32 actuator vs grounding solenoid?

And if I get 10psi through grounding the solenoid due to having a turbo back exhaust, wouldn't I then get more than 10 with the r32 actuator?

[JonnoHR31]

every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

[Basti]

every cars different, you might get 9psi, you might get 11psi. at the end of the day it doesnt make much difference, try it without the solenoid plumbed in and if its not enough you can use the solenoid to give you a little more at higher rpms. if that isnt good enough buy a turbotech mbc.

dont do that. think, if the sloenoid takes the boost from 5psi (stock r33 actuator set level) to 7/8psi. add that to your 10 psi r32 actuator, and you are spiking to 12/13psi. unless you want to

[OoskylineoO]

sorry to hi jack, recently installed a rb20 actuator and now its overboosting to about 16+psi !. I've been reading and believe i hooked up everything correctly. I'm puzzled now :S. Current mods, 3'' bellmouth and zorst, turbotech boost T set to ~12psi and a nistune remap.

Prior to this problem I had another 1, my boost would drop from 12psi to about 10psi only in high revs (5500-redline), the actuator was suspected so i replaced with rb20 1 and now this

Any ideas guys?, only thing i changed during isntalltion was extending the vac line from actuator to boost T to cooler pipe to reach. :S

[Galois]

sorry, also don't want to hijack, but does anyone know what type of actuator this is