Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK so i ive removed the boost solenoid from the wastegate setup and my setup is now as follows

.............................................(T-connector)

(Post-intercooler pipe) ========+=========------->(wastegate)

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................( ) <--Restrictor

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................\/

.................................(Pipe back to turbo inlet)

Ok so my understanding is that the wastegate spring opens at 5 psi. therefore with my setup the line with the restrictor should bypass some pressure, keeping the wastegate shut past 5 psi and creating more boost.

however the turbo is not going past 0.4 bar or around 5.8 psi. ive drilled the restrictor to over 2.6mm and its still not giving any more than 0.4 bar. i dont get that, the line should be bleeding off plenty of pressure by now. in fact id expect it to be over boosting, but its not giving me anymore. WTF?

can someone shed some light here? am i boost-tarded or missing something here?

Edited by zoomzoom
OK so i ive removed the boost solenoid from the wastegate setup and my setup is now as follows

.............................................(T-connector)

(Post-intercooler pipe) ========+=========------->(wastegate)

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................( ) <--Restrictor

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................||

.................................................\/

.................................(Pipe back to turbo inlet)

Ok so my understanding is that the wastegate spring opens at 5 psi. therefore with my setup the line with the restrictor should bypass some pressure, keeping the wastegate shut past 5 psi and creating more boost.

however the turbo is not going past 0.4 bar or around 5.8 psi. ive drilled the restrictor to over 2.6mm and its still not giving any more than 0.4 bar. i dont get that, the line should be bleeding off plenty of pressure by now. in fact id expect it to be over boosting, but its not giving me anymore. WTF?

can someone shed some light here? am i boost-tarded or missing something here?

Your diagram is correct so if you have connected from the intercooler pipe to the actuator with a bleed going back to the bov return pipe then I would expect better than 0.4 bar. Is this true all the way to 7000rpm? i.e. does it not increase with high revs? You could try a simple experiment - pull the hose off the actuator and try it carefully at first and then with more and more and see if your boost goes up. If it doesn't then you have to find out why - turbo no good, intercooler leaking, hoses leaking wastegate stuck open? If the boost does go up with the actuator disconnected then maybe the actuator (spring) is stuffed.

ok i had a good chance to test it today. i took the bypass restrictor off, so it should have been keeping the wastegate closed the whole time, yet it would not boost past 0.5bar

i sure hope it wasnt a pressure leak in the intake because that would have spun the turbo very fast :)

so, where am i left now, how do i go about testing the turbo? shaft play?

ok i had a good chance to test it today. i took the bypass restrictor off, so it should have been keeping the wastegate closed the whole time, yet it would not boost past 0.5bar

i sure hope it wasnt a pressure leak in the intake because that would have spun the turbo very fast :bomb_ie:

so, where am i left now, how do i go about testing the turbo? shaft play?

Did you try pulling the hose off the actuator (and perhaps plugging all the hoses)?

If you get stuff all boost then check for leaks and unless anyone has a better idea it may be turbo off time. Or see if the actuator is stuck.

bad news im starting to think.

i havent noticed before but i found black oil dripping from the rubber coupling on the air intake just before the throttle body. its dripped onto the cam cover

post-46287-1225867697_thumb.jpg

excess oil in the intake? bad turbo seals? i not sure if the turbo is bad, ive never seen smoke on startup

dont mean to alarm you, but i think there was a thread somewere recent with the same kinda oil leak, think it came down to turbo is near its due date :S

found that link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...er-t242873.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. Some of them were tight to lol
    • That's right, simple but works. Run out of load? Rescale the table lol. Want to be lazy and not rescale? Drag the K
    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...