Jump to content
SAU Community

R-33 Gts-t Series 1 Engine Bay

blitz r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

blitz r33 Collaborator

blitz r33

Posted
Posted

i dont know if this is normal or not but when i start my car up the revs go over 1000rpm and in a split second they go down that low its like the engine is struggling to get the revs back up so i give it a bit of a rev and it goes back up but there is this weird tic tic tic noise under the bonnet?

its due for a major service but it has done this for a little while now,any ideas???

the only thing i can think of is i got it serviced by a mechanic a while back... just the oil and oil filter and he could have put some cheap ass oil in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243170-r-33-gts-t-series-1-engine-bay/
Share on other sites
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
i dont know if this is normal or not but when i start my car up the revs go over 1000rpm and in a split second they go down that low its like the engine is struggling to get the revs back up so i give it a bit of a rev and it goes back up but there is this weird tic tic tic noise under the bonnet?

its due for a major service but it has done this for a little while now,any ideas???

the only thing i can think of is i got it serviced by a mechanic a while back... just the oil and oil filter and he could have put some cheap ass oil in it.

if i thought that my oil was too thin/cheap i'd go str8 out and buy some nice oil... saaaaay motul turbolight 4100 10w40 and an oil filter... saaaaay a ryco z145a and do an oil change that day...

jus sayin.......

RB JET Apprentice

RB JET

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have the same problem. On my fc hand controller it says that my vct sensor is turning on and off. Its located on the right of injector number 1, and looks like a goldy coloured hexagonal tube thing with a plug in it. That is the clicking that i can hear in mine. It also makes my idle hunt terribly on start up, but then goes away after it gets warm?? :D Let me know how u go, or if i find a solution ill let u know!!

Edited by RB JET

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...