Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a bet with a mate.. and he believes theres a power difference if theres a single exhaust..

We're talking about the tip of the muffler..

Quoted by someone on the forum.. -->

Because twin or single its going to make absolutely no diffrence. Its far too late in the exhaust system for it to have any effect of noise or "performance" or anything of the sorts.

...............

please share your opnion..

Does it really make a difference if the exhaust tip is single or twin?

could have just asked the question in here.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tw...le-t242824.html

(where you got that quote from)

anyway... its n/a power I am assuming you are talking about? not going to be a single difference... maybe max 1kw/2kw depending on overall setup, but if you have a good system (manifold to back of car) it doesnt matter what the tip is going to be...

but for argument sake lets look at the math of it....

if you have twin exhausts, each coming out to 2 2.5inch tips = 2*2.5 = 5 inchs of good 'ol super cheap auto chromey tip

or if you want a cannon that has a single big 5 inch tip = 1*5 = 5 inchs of good 'ol super cheap auto chomey tip

see what I mean... its not really going to make any difference.... get a 500kw dyno monster that needs all the flow it can get and then yes... different setups will impact on the cars performance.

Adam

What Adam said covers the answer.

On another note though, the oval twin tip mufflers are apparently known to drone quite a bit on N/A Skylines, as I've been told by one of the guys at Rob Bliss Exhaust in Brisbane. That was the advice I was given when I was asking about a twin tip set up, simply for a factory looking system.

I don't like to be the one to say it, but if you do a search through these N/A forums you'll find that N/A Skyline Exhaust systems have been pretty much done inside out...

could have just asked the question in here.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tw...le-t242824.html

(where you got that quote from)

anyway... its n/a power I am assuming you are talking about? not going to be a single difference... maybe max 1kw/2kw depending on overall setup, but if you have a good system (manifold to back of car) it doesnt matter what the tip is going to be...

but for argument sake lets look at the math of it....

if you have twin exhausts, each coming out to 2 2.5inch tips = 2*2.5 = 5 inchs of good 'ol super cheap auto chromey tip

or if you want a cannon that has a single big 5 inch tip = 1*5 = 5 inchs of good 'ol super cheap auto chomey tip

see what I mean... its not really going to make any difference.... get a 500kw dyno monster that needs all the flow it can get and then yes... different setups will impact on the cars performance.

Adam

ROFL...

2x 2.5" pipes IS NOT the same as a 5" pipe.

5" == 12.7cm == cross sectional size of 126.67cm^2

2.5" == 6.35cm == cross section size of 31.67cm^2 x 2 == 63.34cm^2

thus, 4x 2.5" pipe is equivilent to a 5" pipe.

the tip size will only make a difference if the original is too restrictive

the biggest exit AFTER teh muffler the better

too big and droney and noisy as fuck - something like a 3" single exit or a twin 2.5" depending on taste would sound alright

the biggest restriction in teh whole exhaust should be the muffler - theres a reason for that - its called legalities regarding noise lol

the ultimate would be straight pipes - but thats noisey as fuck

Edited by 342Four

Gosh who ever you quoted that from is an AWESOME bloke!

You have your answere in your first thread.

Twin or not. There is no difference. I dont care. There just isn't.

Its too late in the exhaust system. The gass is being pushed out, the tips are ALWAYS bigger than the rest of the system etc. etc. etc.

its only for the look.

Do I need another "In Before the Lock" photo too?

Is it school holidays already?

Edited by GTS4WD

haha... well said Chris.... :(

and Mitchy.... I am glad you found my post that amusing that you rolled on the floor laughing outloud while reading it... please put a youtube vid up to show you did it or dont comment saying that crap.

god knows where you pulled the cross sectional values anyway..you went from 12.7cm to 126.67cm how?

regardless, if you really believe a twin TIP (NOT the whole system) is going to make that much difference please show me comparission dyno threads. but from what my mates and I have tested... a single big TIP or two tips each half the size of the big one is not going to make the slightest difference for a road car.

and because Chris seems to be the guy to quote off it seems appropraite that I repeat his words so that you may understand.

"Twin or not. There is no difference. I dont care. There just isn't.

Its too late in the exhaust system. The gass is being pushed out, the tips are ALWAYS bigger than the rest of the system etc. etc. etc."

^^^^dude its called math

5" is 12.7cm

area of a circle equals Pi*R(sqaured)

radius is half of 12.7cm = 6.35cm

that squared = 40.3225 square cm

times THAT bi Pi and you get 126.7 square centimeters cross sectional area of a 5" tip

to get the equivalent area from a 2.5" tip you need 4 2.5" tips (cross sectional area of a 2.5" tip is 31.7 square centimeters)

a tip CAN be too restrictive

imagine a 2" tip on a 3" exhaust

its like trying to blow up a balloon with a straw - ur going to get tired, and the balloon is not going to get very full

There is a big difference between them....Police see a cannon and get interested in your car very quickly :) A factory looking twin system doesn't get any real attention in comparison :P

a tip CAN be too restrictive

imagine a 2" tip on a 3" exhaust

its like trying to blow up a balloon with a straw - ur going to get tired, and the balloon is not going to get very full

Yes.. this is true. But even the supercheap items have the tip welded to the muffler so its impossible to mess this one up.

All mufflers have a tip larger than the entry point.

Im not arguing with you the math of a FULL system, I know theres a big difference... but as if you have a 3inch system with a 2inch tip... unless you welded it together yourself you couldnt buy it like that.

I suppose you could weld the tip of the miffler to the exhaust and leave the inlet as the tip. :down:

So as the muffler is 3inch to a 2 inch tip. or something of the sorts. :laugh:

Back to the thread,

IBTL

adam, what mitch said about calculating the area of the exhaust (i.e. cross section) is 100% correct.

some of you guys are going around in circles. firstly you need to understand what the muffler is for.

the muffler is basically a point where the flow of exhaust gases are muffled by distrupting the airflow. the gases are passed through a series of perforated pipes in various baffled chambers. they are then expelled outside and voila! quiet exhaust. i suggest some of you go and open a muffler up if you get the chance and understand how the internals work.

the biggest exit AFTER teh muffler the better

too big and droney and noisy as f**k - something like a 3" single exit or a twin 2.5" depending on taste would sound alright

the biggest restriction in teh whole exhaust should be the muffler - theres a reason for that - its called legalities regarding noise lol

the ultimate would be straight pipes - but thats noisey as f**k

i would say 99% correct ashley! good work. the other 1% i will explain a little later.

the other 1%. even if the end pipe of the muffler (i.e. tip) is the biggest, which will help to some degree. it also comes down to the design and sizing of the internal pipes, perforations and camber sizes.

so the million dollar comment is: you can not just look at the tips alone. it ultimately comes down to the research and development behind the product it's internals and how well the muffler as one entire package is able to maintain good flow properties and keep the exhaust volume under legal limits.

and yes ash, straight pipes would be the sweet sweet ultimate.

edit: see pics for a better understanding

mufflerViews.gif

ANSA%20Muffler%20b.jpg

a straight through muffler is exactly as it suggests

a good quality straight through muffler you should be able to look right through it from exit to entry (unless of course you have an offset exit/entry)

the muffling on a straight through is done by a baffle chamber AROUND the exhaust - perforations or the like in the pipe in the muffler allow flow to diffuse into the chamber and muffle the sound

thats essentially how a cannon works

the muffler in the last pic by eug is a typical factory exhaust muffler - sound is very quiet, but very very restrictive - the exhaust gases have to change direction 3 times and in a small body this is going to choke the gases BIG time and slow everything down and not flow well at all

lol here is a crappy photoshop pic

mufflerks5.png

w500.png

the bottom one is a common aftermarket muffler - exhaust comes in from right - goes out main pipe and diffuses into exit pipe

they usually flow alright and arent too restrictive

the top one is an straight thru highflow item - gases diffuse into baffle chamber around the pipe

generally the bigger the baffle chamber the quiter it is, but also can very droney as the gases start to 'echo' a lot more

adam, what mitch said about calculating the area of the exhaust (i.e. cross section) is 100% correct.

so the million dollar comment is: you can not just look at the tips alone. it ultimately comes down to the research and development behind the product it's internals and how well the muffler as one entire package is able to maintain good flow properties and keep the exhaust volume under legal limits.

Thanks for the lesson! definetly understood much better now! 

Thanks mitch for trying to explain it... I just didnt understand how you went from 12.7cm to 127.xxx ... but as soon as someone said pieR^2 I got it.

Least I learnt something today! 

regards,

Adam

P.S isnt it funny how "awsome" hasent even replied to his own thread?!

What Adam said covers the answer.

On another note though, the oval twin tip mufflers are apparently known to drone quite a bit on N/A Skylines, as I've been told by one of the guys at Rob Bliss Exhaust in Brisbane. That was the advice I was given when I was asking about a twin tip set up, simply for a factory looking system.

I don't like to be the one to say it, but if you do a search through these N/A forums you'll find that N/A Skyline Exhaust systems have been pretty much done inside out...

do circular twin tip mufflers even exist? if so thats what id want to get if the drone is the case.

(saying that my exhaust drones alot and its round)

Thanks for the lesson! definetly understood much better now!

Thanks mitch for trying to explain it... I just didnt understand how you went from 12.7cm to 127.xxx ... but as soon as someone said pieR^2 I got it.

Least I learnt something today!

regards,

Adam

P.S isnt it funny how "awsome" hasent even replied to his own thread?!

Which thread? He has too many to keep track of lol

i'm suprised to see this thread is still going, but with that said though, it's been quite an informative lesson on mufflers which is good to see!

WOW..

way to complicate things boys! :huh:

Yes. This is true what is being said. Theoretically.

But in all honesty.

Take a step back!

This is not a defining aspect. There are far more important issues (Air temp, humudity, dyno, petrol, air flow, air quality etc.) that will be more influential in a "final figure" in terms a power figure or even the "seat of the pants" test. Your going doing to experience any diffrence. These very minor details are not going to have huge effects upon a vehicles performance (well not when your talking about ye ol faithful RB25). When you get to the world stage of V8's, touring cars F1 etc. these insignificant diffrences make a diffrence. But even then you dont have to worrie about mufflers.

So I suppose its just a thread for a thread's sake, an argument for the sake of arguing.

I suppose its an interesting thread as an idea. But little practicallity.

Simple is always best.

And simplest is straight. Either way its going (twin or single) to make bugger all diff.

And final word is:

ibtl.jpg

:P

Edited by GTS4WD
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...