redline gear box oil

[TTT]

It was just the thing my gearbox needed.

I was already using a PENZOIL synthetic gearbox oil but changing from 1st to second fast would still cause a slight crunch.

with this oil it works great.

Just remember one thing though.. Once you put Synthetic oil in your gearbox, You CANNOT go back to an organic oil.

FLY-SKY..

Maybe what that means is that it is not suitable for use IN the rear DIFF and to use it only for gearbox.

[FLY-SKY]

CONAN...u cant get this oil in cabramatta

GTST...oh yeah, u could be right

[FLY-SKY]

hey guys any one know anything bout gear boxes??

cause yesterday i put a 2nd hand box in and now when i give it abit of revs the car feels shakey, feels like its the tail shaft or mayb the fly wheel... or does anyone think its the actual box itself?? its second hand i wouldnt know if anythings wrong with it... help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

[Craved]

did you use your original flywheel? the tail shaft would be hard to put in wrong because of the spline on the end, and the gear box would work (my guess) if the internals weren't lined up as they should be!!

sounds like clutch plate/fly wheel issue IMOH

[FLY-SKY]

hmm yeah but i didnt touch them i left the flywheel and cltuch where they were

[Timmy G]

Originally posted by GTST

Just remember one thing though.. Once you put Synthetic oil in your gearbox, You CANNOT go back to an organic oil.

you cannot go back to organic oil because synthetic is so good and feels better? or it'll physically damage your box?

[BuzLightyear]

I don't know if anyone's tried this, but I found that adding oil stabiliser (Lucas or Morley's) to my gearbox improved the action a good deal.

Despit my box having been re-built (due to slow undiagnosed oil leek, not thrashing) it was still a bit notchy. I decided to try oil stabiliser firstly before going to the expense of using Redline.

The oil stabiliser label says very worn boxes need 40%/normal oil mix. I tried this firstly and found it too difficult to shift when the box was cold. I re-mixed the formula to 30% and it was much better, but still a bit stiff for the first couple of shifts (I am mixing it with Castrol VMX80). Probably a mix of 20% would be ideal, but I'm leaving it as is cos it feels very smooth once it's warm.

It only costs about $19.00 for a litre, and you only need about half that.

Anyone got any comments on the rights or wrongs of doing this? I mentioned it to my mechanic (Gavin Wood, Autotech) and he had nothing against it.

[Busky2k]

Lucas is just an oil thickener really. I didnt think it'd do much for shifting. Also lucas causes real bad foaming from some tests i've seen, so I personally wouldnt recommend it.. But hey if it works for you..

[TTT]

Originally posted by Timmy G

you cannot go back to organic oil because synthetic is so good and feels better? or it'll physically damage your box?

I mean you can't go back because the REDLINE synthetic oil leaves a coat of film (like a coat of oil) in the gearbox and I've been told that you can't mix organic oil back in to it or you'll get CLUMPS of crap in the gear box oil.

Redline oil costs $25 a litre.

The R32 GTST gearbox takes 2.8L

I bought the large 4 litre thing for $100 and have about a litre left.

When you consider that you probably spend at least $50 every 5000kms and never change your gearbox oil until you feel a problem, it's a wise investment.

[Duncan]

lol, we've all got a litre of redline in the garage...need to get 3 of us together and sell to the next person who needs some

[BuzLightyear]

Originally posted by Busky2k

Lucas is just an oil thickener really. I didnt think it'd do much for shifting. Also lucas causes real bad foaming from some tests i've seen, so I personally wouldnt recommend it.. But hey if it works for you..

True - Lucas and other stabilisers are oil thickeners (or certainly appear to be even though Lucas claim on the website that their stabiliser doesn't alter VI), but Redline Lightweight Shockproof is simply a thicker oil (80w120). There is nothing exclusively esoteric about it, and it is very expensive.

I can't recall the VI for Lucas' stabiliser, but you could beef up a 75w90 synthetic with it to about a 120 oil simply by doing a few sums - or do what I did and just follow Lucas' instructions for a 20% concentration.

It'll still mean you get all the protection and longevity of the synthetic and at a fraction of the cost of the Redline.

Shell Helix 75/90 is a fully synthetic and is 'water cracked' so it's cheaper - about half the price of Castrol synthetic. It's probably a good oil but might not have quite the drain interval of, say, Castrol.

As I said, my gearbox was still a bit notchy after the re-build, but is now so smoooooth, and I think it cost me about $37 for both the synthetic and the oil stabiliser.

I don't know about the foaming issue Busky mentioned, but in the end it is the quality of the shift which is one of the main indicators of how a gearbox oil is working.

Lucas is frequently used in competition.

I'll be posting a new thread shortly with independant analysis of various oils in use (as soon as I find where I put it) which also shows that you can't believe didly squat about oil company claims concerning their products.

I'm not suggesting Redline isn't a good oil, just questioning whether we need to spend all that money for non-competition use.

[BuzLightyear]

Originally posted by BuzLightyear

I don't know if anyone's tried this, but I found that adding oil stabiliser (Lucas or Morley's) to my gearbox improved the action a good deal.

Despit my box having been re-built (due to slow undiagnosed oil leek, not thrashing) it was still a bit notchy. I decided to try oil stabiliser firstly before going to the expense of using Redline.

The oil stabiliser label says very worn boxes need 40%/normal oil mix. I tried this firstly and found it too difficult to shift when the box was cold. I re-mixed the formula to 30% and it was much better, but still a bit stiff for the first couple of shifts (I am mixing it with Castrol VMX80). Probably a mix of 20% would be ideal, but I'm leaving it as is cos it feels very smooth once it's warm.

It only costs about $19.00 for a litre, and you only need about half that.

Anyone got any comments on the rights or wrongs of doing this? I mentioned it to my mechanic (Gavin Wood, Autotech) and he had nothing against it.