Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if u r just pulling the old box out and replacing with a new its just straight forward . drop one out lift other up bolt on and way u go . if u r going to change the clutch at the same time then u have to line the clutch up , if u want to do that let me know and i'll post for u .as long as u know the basic stuff , undo tail shaft all bellhousing bolts including starter , slave , unplug wiring , take the gearstick out , i think that covers it as u have a push clutch it will come out no probs . r33 with pull clutch is a different story .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24331-gearboxes/#findComment-519693
Share on other sites

thats what i said before if u want to pull the clutch out ( good idea while the box is down ) to inspect and maybe change it if half or more worn then u have to line it up so u can put the box back up .if u dont line it up the box will never go back .once u have the box down undo all the bolts that hold the clutch assembly and pull the clutch pressure plate off . have a look at the clutch plate for wear and if 1/2 worn u need to get a clutch kit ( new clutch plate , new or rebuild pressure plate , new thrust bearing and a new spiggot bush or bearing ( not sure if ur car has bush or bearing ). i would take the flywheel off and get it machined ( 30-40 $ ). install the spiggot then flywheel ( i always use locktite on the bolts ) then the pressure plate with clutch ( make sure u put the clutch plate the right way )use locktite on the pressure plate bolts . before u do the pressure plate tight u line up the spine of the clutch plate to make sure its in the middle its got to be spot on ( u can buy a tool to do that ) i have old g/box input shafts to line up my clutches . as long as its lining up when u lift the g/box up threre it will go in u just turn the box left to right a little so spline of the shaft doesnt hit the clutch spline and u r sweet .if it doesnt line up it wont go cause the pressure plate presses the clutch plate hard and it wont move . i hope it this helps u , by the way u r lucky it has a push clutch and not a pull one .

as for machining the flywheel have a look if it hasnt got burn marks ( if u drive like a grany it may not ) then dont worry but i always do it .

if got another clutch with the new box that u r instaling check it out if nearly new use it if not dont risk it . u can get a new clutch kit for u r car for 200 - 250 ( stock )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24331-gearboxes/#findComment-520639
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
    • Temu raptor, lol. At least the owner isn't your typical ranger danger lot
×
×
  • Create New...