Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah its just a stock 33 GTR engine in it now...wish it was a N1 haha

Stock R33 GTR engine... That probley explain you got a higher out put.

R33 GTR's came with a little bit more of a power out put and more torque from memory, although Japan said it was still 206kW.

  • 5 years later...

General rule of thumb: don't aim for a certain power level. There's enough variation in dynos that you can never be sure anyway. Do a couple supporting modifications to liven it up, and pay for a decent tune then just drive it. If that's not quick enough for you then keep spending money but beware, it gets expensive.

don't forget to take it down the 1/4 and post your MPH. it gives a better idea of power

anyone chime in on this?

catback exhaust, pod filters + tune 250atw kws?

Exhaust, tune with aftermarket ecu, more boost (and hope your stock turbos don't fail)

Don't need pod filters, the standard 32gtr airbox is fine. I'm running 336rwkw with it and the standard item can support more.

anyone chime in on this?

catback exhaust, pod filters + tune 250atw kws?

I'll swap you my pod filters for your air box if you just want more noise but it's unnecessary for the power.

A cat back exhaust and tune will most likely get you around the 250kw mark. Just don't keep your hopes up that your turbo's will last.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I also think it comes down to the dollars spent for quality items, there's some cheapie versions out there, which look fine, but, there are versions of much higher quality out there, but, you obviously pay more for the quality of materials used and quality control When I first got work done by Advan Performance on my old R33 the silicone joiners were cheapies and actually blew out on a joiner heading to the plenum, when I then took it to Unigroup they said that the silicone hoses they used and were junk, Unigroup replaced every hose on the engine with much higher quality items and from then I never had a issue with any hose Additional cost and quality gets you quality silicone base materials and quality reinforcement fabric stuff As for OEM rubber hoses, again, quality materials and strict quality control will give you quality hoses, but only to OEM spec, I believe using quality silicone replacements is a upgrade I  saying this I have only dealt with vehicles I own and play with
    • Not gonna lie my sense of smell isn't the best. But it does look more grey to me. It doesn't smell like oil, friend says it smells like fuel.
    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
×
×
  • Create New...