Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have searched everywhere on SAU and google, as well as rung up a few shops and haven't been able to find a shop in Melb that sells bodykits for R34 GTRs.

I have read the post on SAU http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ad-t238480.html

which doesn't mention any Victorian shops.

I realise it is rare for shops to stock parts as it would be a pretty low-volume product. I am especially looking for the C-West or Top Secret body kits.

Thanks very much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243316-r34-gtr-bodykits-in-melbourne/
Share on other sites

Hey man ,

drop a line to these guys http://www.autoindulgence.com.au/contact.html they can take care of the whole lot for you.

Got to say have never heard of them. They have no email/phone number/address. Must be a new workshop starting up. I will look into it. Thanks.

my mates got a gti-r.

he's got a r34 gtr front bar made to size and fit up on it.

i can look into the number or website, think there in NZ or up the coast somwere

Err, I am looking more for bodykits for an R34 GTR, not stock R34 GTR bodykits for other cars.

Thanks anyway for the offer though. That would be quite a feat, fitting an R34 GTR front bar on a tiny GTI-R frame. Any pics?

Web shops are your best bet.

R34 GTR's are perfect from factory in my opinion.

I concur with the exception of sideskirts. I wouldn't change anything on a GTR cosmetically except for tougher more bigger sideskirts.

All a GTR needs is sideskirts, lowered suspension, an exahust system, possibly pod filter and front mount...and that's it.

Not bad. Looks very clean. Although being NISMO it will probably be pricier. I was looking for something a little more wild though, like C-WEST.

Pricey but worth it IMO and one of the best.

Yeah C-West is one of my favourites too.

post-46584-1226213200_thumb.jpg

Ask Matt (GTTR34) he has the C-West Front Bar and he could tell you were to source one from.

Pricey but worth it IMO and one of the best.

Yeah C-West is one of my favourites too.

post-46584-1226213200_thumb.jpg

Ask Matt (GTTR34) he has the C-West Front Bar and he could tell you were to source one from.

+1 FULL NISMO KIT IS THE BEST LOOKING BODY KIT, IT'S NOT OVER THE TOP AND IS VERY CLEAN. I'VE GOT A GENUINE KIT ON MY CAR.

post-43204-1226381935_thumb.jpg

post-43204-1226381987_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
    • Did you find that your voltage of the battery wasn't where it's normally supposed to be? for example on my r34, it's at 14.5v when running after a few seconds, but I noticed when I had a rough start and it initially wasn't idling correctly, the voltage on my triple gauge cluster was showing lower than usual. Seems like the alternator is starting to crap itself
    • And, given that you're in NC, go buy an LS7 or something equally sweet and piss that crappy old RB off. Or call up Wesley Kagan and get his help putting a Merc V12 into it.
    • Do a compression test, and a bore scope on the cylinder that lost parts of the plug. Chances are, that cylinder isn't so happy anymore...
×
×
  • Create New...