Jump to content
SAU Community

1987 R31 Skyline Silhouette Rb30et


Recommended Posts

Make/Model: Series 2 R31 Silhouette. Sedan

Year: November 87

Kilometers: 140,000ish

Transmission type: 5 spd Manual

Engine: RB30e+t

Colour: White over Silver

Modifications: Too many to fit here

Registered: Yes

Asking Price: $12,000 o.n.o ... Less without wheels

Location: Adelaide, SA. Willing to send interstate

Contact Details: PM. Post here. 0401 512 776

Other Comments: Build thread here: http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php/topic,47225.0.html

Mod list:

Engine spec:

RB30et

VLT Injectors and ECU

Malpassi 1.7 Rising Rate fuel reg

DRiFT oil catch tank

Highflowed to3 running 15psi

K&N pod filter

VLT manifold, custom dump, 3" exhaust under diff, removable rear muffler w/ straight pipes

450x300x76 front mount intercooler

Walbro 600hp in tank fuel pump

Interior:

Aftermarket gearknob

DRiFT boost guage

GReddy Full Auto turbo timer

CAMS approved fire extinguisher

Chopped and welded short shifter

Velo GP90 racing seats with custom Silhouette logo

Exterior:

20% Window Tint

Premium numberplates

Clear front indicators

Clear side indicators

S3 tail lights

Stereo:

Pioneer MP3 headunit

12" Pioneer 800watt sub

front 6" JL Audio splits

rear JVC 220watt 6" 3 ways

Suspension:

Whiteline Front and Rear Swaybars

S13 ISC Coilovers, 7500km's old.

Whiteline Strut Brace

Brakes:

R32 GTR front calipers and rotors.

Driveline:

Manual conversion w/ Custom gearbox crossmember

Xtreme H/D Clutch - Will be replaced before sale if there's interest

Spooled 3.7 Diff

Wheels:

18x9" Work Meister S1's, recently resprayed.

Genuinely expressing interest, will no doubt be highly regrettable to sell, but I have no room for 2 cars and I'll be buggered if I'm leaving either of them in the weather. Garaged every night of it's life for the past 14 years. Mostly original paint, front guards and bonnet I believe were resprayed before I purchased it from my uncle, who owned the car for 10ish years.

Dyno proven 210rwkws 03/09/2008.

Serviced every 5000km's.

I've only done about 10,000k's in the past year. Is not a daily driver.

Recently removed window tint due to a Regency defect but car is now undefected and registered.

Think the price is a bit high for an Aus R31? Think about it. Over 25k in mods, cheaper than an R32 but will shit all over one, and why not be unique.

Picture195.jpg

Picture199.jpg

IMGP0159.jpg

IMGP1313.jpg

Edited by Silhouette31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice 31 but 12k i bit much istn it?? i got 7k cash in my hand today...

let me know

I'll take coilovers, rims, seats out and sell you the rest for 7k. Otherwise please don't post. If I can't get what it's worth I'll put it into storage.

More pictures please!

I also cant click that link to the buildup... Says "The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you." Im a member to.

All 7 pages of pictures are here

http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j85/Silh...1%20Silhouette/

And yeah you need at least 10 or 20 posts to view the members cars area.

Car is lodged for Carsales.com.au, should be up on Monday night.

I've had alot of interest just by driving it around last night with a for sale sticker on the window, unfortunatly mostly dreamers. I won't be handing out test drives to anyone unless I know they're seriously interested.

Edited by Silhouette31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
    • NO HITS PRICE DROP   ENGINE - $8.5k ONO TRANSMISSION - $1.8k ONO  
    • If it has had a code in the recent past, the code should still be there waiting to be read.
×
×
  • Create New...