S1 Turbo

[66yostagea]

145k and the turbo has a death rattle. Even stalling at 2000 she is mortally wounded.

It started last week as a tic tic tic, and it sounded like a tappet. But today it manifested itself as a death march.

Since I got the S1 at 90k and now at 145k it has not been flogged, hardly ever got to 6000, if ever. So is it normal to just suddenly kark it?

Engine is pretty stock, auto. Has an R34 smic and cold air deflector with Red Line oiled panel filter. Two stage manually

(electrically) controlled boost, But never been over 9 or so psi. It really is just a work horse.

Well I have to fix it so I went to DIY and got totally confused.

What is the most economical way to repair/replace the stock turbo??????

[Stinky Rooster]

ever used a turbo timer?

*and so begins the flaming...*

[_Ryan_]

oil panel FTL but not for this thread.

dale is teh funneh... my turbo timer shows boost, and decides on how long it stays on dependant on how hard i have been driving, how recently i boosted etc... sensible IMO... i used to have a "cool down" route home for my 1600 heh.

if you dont want to go second hand look at a GCG or similar highflow.

[KiwiRS4T]

145k and the turbo has a death rattle. Even stalling at 2000 she is mortally wounded.

It started last week as a tic tic tic, and it sounded like a tappet. But today it manifested itself as a death march.

Since I got the S1 at 90k and now at 145k it has not been flogged, hardly ever got to 6000, if ever. So is it normal to just suddenly kark it?

Engine is pretty stock, auto. Has an R34 smic and cold air deflector with Red Line oiled panel filter. Two stage manually

(electrically) controlled boost, But never been over 9 or so psi. It really is just a work horse.

Well I have to fix it so I went to DIY and got totally confused.

What is the most economical way to repair/replace the stock turbo??????

We have just been having this discussion...read the last few pages of the turbo replacement thread above (or below).

[66yostagea]

ever used a turbo timer?

*and so begins the flaming...*

I have a TT. It is still in the box caus SK talked me out of it.

Anyway the only time I have a bit of a flog is coming up Henri Robert Drive. Usually it only boosts to 5psi, it is a 60 zone,

very occasionally I switch to 9 psi till I get to the top. About 5 km, then there is a 10 km slow, 60kph, to home. With the R34 smic one would assume that the extra cooling would negate the need for a TT. As SK indicated. Also the use of the cold air deflector and Red Line PF iis also helping to cool everything down.

Getting another TO3 today, so it will be interesting to see why the original one has farked.

[66yostagea]

I have taken all the inlet piping off and the induction end of the turbo has BA play. Maybe a mil all round. So the turbo could be OK? What I did notice was several of the hose clamps were not fully tight. Could that cause the noise I heard. It sounded like a CA18 spooling up.

And whoever designed the bolt pattern for the main heat shield should be neutered.

Would appreciate any advice.

[DaveB]

I have taken all the inlet piping off and the induction end of the turbo has BA play. Maybe a mil all round. So the turbo could be OK? What I did notice was several of the hose clamps were not fully tight. Could that cause the noise I heard. It sounded like a CA18 spooling up.

And whoever designed the bolt pattern for the main heat shield should be neutered.

Would appreciate any advice.

Lol I agree with you on the heat shield bolts! I have been having a wonderful time (not) trying to remove mine... took me all Saturday...

Have just been going through the turbo replacement myself... think it's this thread. I can only offer "subjective advice" in that my turbo was making some pretty loud spool/rubbing/whining noises for a good 20,000K's, and more recently throwing oil out the inlet, and it sounded like an exhaust leak at idle with the bonnet up and listening to it closely (bit of the rattle like you described I think)... and I could get much less than 1mm longitudinal/end-to-end play in the shaft, and a barely visible/feelable amount of lateral/side-side play in the shaft.

However I'm sure mine's got too much... looking at a GCG hi-flow rebuild this week. ~1mm all round sounds like a LOT to me... if it has any side-to-side play AT ALL, surely it's gonna contact the housing when it spins up to 50,000+ RPM and heats up to like 800 degrees? (pure speculation on my part here!)

I have heard that you can get the turbo rebuilt (to stock spec') for ~$600, something like a hi-flow from GCG is ~$1,895 (exchange) and an aftermarket turbo like a Garett GT2871R (perhaps ~30kw less top-end than a GCG hi-flow?) is ~$1,600 + new oil/water lines/fittings and adapters... but more of that in thread mentioned above

Edit: PS An R33 turbo with "some end play" which had been sitting in a guy's shed for a couple years just went for ~$200 on ebay; there might be the odd 'bargain' to be had there...

Edited November 8, 2008 by DaveB

[66yostagea]

Thanks for that Dave. Different Saturday same hitts! That last bolt near the turbo intake requires a new 10mm ringie.

Now I notice there are NO studs and nuts on the manilod at No1 and No 6. If they should be there it means someone had a go at it in Japan.

Q? Is it possible to remove a stock turbo without removing the manifold. I am assuming that the fix of the manifold is OK.

or, What is the correct (easiest) method?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[KiwiRS4T]

Thanks for that Dave. Different Saturday same hitts! That last bolt near the turbo intake requires a new 10mm ringie.

Now I notice there are NO studs and nuts on the manilod at No1 and No 6. If they should be there it means someone had a go at it in Japan.

Q? Is it possible to remove a stock turbo without removing the manifold. I am assuming that the fix of the manifold is OK.

or, What is the correct (easiest) method?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Broken manifold studs are common on these engines and it would be a good idea to eliminate future leaks by checking and replacing while you are taking the turbo off.

[zoomzoom]

Lol I agree with you on the heat shield bolts! I have been having a wonderful time (not) trying to remove mine... took me all Saturday...

Have just been going through the turbo replacement myself... think it's this thread. I can only offer "subjective advice" in that my turbo was making some pretty loud spool/rubbing/whining noises for a good 20,000K's, and more recently throwing oil out the inlet, and it sounded like an exhaust leak at idle with the bonnet up and listening to it closely (bit of the rattle like you described I think)... and I could get much less than 1mm longitudinal/end-to-end play in the shaft, and a barely visible/feelable amount of lateral/side-side play in the shaft.

However I'm sure mine's got too much... looking at a GCG hi-flow rebuild this week. ~1mm all round sounds like a LOT to me... if it has any side-to-side play AT ALL, surely it's gonna contact the housing when it spins up to 50,000+ RPM and heats up to like 800 degrees? (pure speculation on my part here!)

I have heard that you can get the turbo rebuilt (to stock spec') for ~$600, something like a hi-flow from GCG is ~$1,895 (exchange) and an aftermarket turbo like a Garett GT2871R (perhaps ~30kw less top-end than a GCG hi-flow?) is ~$1,600 + new oil/water lines/fittings and adapters... but more of that in thread mentioned above

Edit: PS An R33 turbo with "some end play" which had been sitting in a guy's shed for a couple years just went for ~$200 on ebay; there might be the odd 'bargain' to be had there...

when you say the GCG hi flow is $1895 do you mean you are buying a unit for that price, or do you have to send your own turbo off to be modified at that price?

[Tangles]

66yr old mate, take off the turbo and have a good look at it.

take off the manifold and replace the manifold gasket, the turbo gasket, and all the manifold exhaust studs. replace them all.

if the turbo is in ok knik put it all back on.

the manifold can be prone to splitting too....

[66yostagea]

66yr old mate, take off the turbo and have a good look at it.

take off the manifold and replace the manifold gasket, the turbo gasket, and all the manifold exhaust studs. replace them all.

if the turbo is in ok knik put it all back on.

the manifold can be prone to splitting too....

Mr T, thanks. I have not taken the turboi off but have given it a broncoscopy and colonoscopy. There is no noticeable end play

or side play. All the blades are on both wheels, There is no evidence of rubbing front or back. There is no evidence of gasket leakage anywhere. So...........

I did encounter loose ish hose clamps on both in and out. The most noticeable one was on the inlet to the turbo so now I'm thinking the noise was coming from a leak on the inlet side, either before or after i smic. I have just fitted an R34 sm but all my joints seemed tight. I did not go the turbo one at that time.

The broken studs are a worry. Both of them are broken flush with the block. HTF do you fix that without pulling the motor out?

I thought this would be a six pack job but now I have to get another cartoon.LOL.

[66yostagea]

I meant take the head off, not the motor out.

Apparently there is a "Thread Doctor" who comes out and does the job on the spot.

Does anyone know if there is one on the Gold Coast?

[Stinky Rooster]

with a set of these

http://www.justtools.com.au/prod5511.htm

$35 and a drill and it should be a snap.

(pun intended )

[KiwiRS4T]

when you say the GCG hi flow is $1895 do you mean you are buying a unit for that price, or do you have to send your own turbo off to be modified at that price?

The discounted price to SAU members for a GCG highflow is $1770 plus freight. You have to provide a turbo (your own or a stuffed one).

[Xmetal]

The discounted price to SAU members for a GCG highflow is $1770 plus freight. You have to provide a turbo (your own or a stuffed one).

I read somewhere it's a 3 day turn around too so factor that in. This doesn't include putting the turbo back on the car btw.

When I did the dump pipe on my stag it was easy enough but some of the studs were a bit tough to do, Also my turbo had half a mil of play so 66yo yours sounds normal for the KM's you've done. I would suggest looking into a hi-flow in the near future though before your hairdryer grenades itself.

P.S. YES that stupid f*cking c*nt engineer that designed that f*cking heat shield should've been taken out and shot!

[DaveB]

The discounted price to SAU members for a GCG highflow is $1770 plus freight. You have to provide a turbo (your own or a stuffed one).

How do I get this discounted price?

[KiwiRS4T]

How do I get this discounted price?

Need to tread a little carefully here. There appears to be a formal discount arrangement with the NSW SAU car club (as opposed to the SAU forum). However I believe the discount originated in the group buy initiated by SK some years ago and GCG are (therefore) happy to give the discounted price so long as you state that you are an SAU member and can quote a reference number. I couldn't find my SAU number (it is 49 thousand something and i have spent some time just now trying to figure out where I saw it but I ca'nt find it to tell you where to look) so instead I have quoted the 3 digit ID number I received when i made a donation to SAU (you have all made a donation, haven't you?) which I think will be fine.

[DaveB]

Need to tread a little carefully here. There appears to be a formal discount arrangement with the NSW SAU car club (as opposed to the SAU forum). However I believe the discount originated in the group buy initiated by SK some years ago and GCG are (therefore) happy to give the discounted price so long as you state that you are an SAU member and can quote a reference number. I couldn't find my SAU number (it is 49 thousand something and i have spent some time just now trying to figure out where I saw it but I ca'nt find it to tell you where to look) so instead I have quoted the 3 digit ID number I received when i made a donation to SAU (you have all made a donation, haven't you?) which I think will be fine.

Thanks Robert. Yeah, the darndest thing - I can't find my membership number anywhere either?!? I have seen it, mine's in the low-30,000's... no time to make a donation, I'm about to head off on my lunchbreak to drop turbo off at a local place to hopefully get a gcg hiflow done on it by end of next week. The price they told me was $1,850 though so not too bad... he did know I was a member of the SAU forums... will have to make that donation

PS If you need to save for a turbo upgrade, do as I did... pull the old turbo off (mine was pretty bad anyway) and watch ur petrol savings as ur stag sits in the garage!

[66yostagea]

I've been watching mine for a week and have saver a 100 bucks.

I'm down to taking the manifold off and hopefully a guy coming tomorrow will get the two broken studs out. All the other nuts came off OK, in fact the one up front was only finger tight, so withe the first stud broken I am at aloss to explain how it sealed. There does not seem to be any evidence of leakage.

To be continued.