Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i just bought a set of 20x10.5, 0 offset work meister's, and they dont fit over my brakes, they are 370mm endless 6 pot racing

i need some custom hats made to push the rotor/caliper 10mm in so i can clear the brakes! atm im runnign 8mm spacers but they sit ridiculously out lol

any help/info to who i should ask/see, need to be in sydney or even in brisbane/gold coast

thanks!!

post-42709-1225965238_thumb.jpg

Just get it dropped off at Race Brakes in Wetherill Park or Penrith Brake and Clutch (gavsport)

are they called Penrith brake and clutch now? i remember the days when they were 'Specialised brake and clutch' and their shop was in St Marys

these guys were the one of the first and IMHO still the best, hope its still the same guys

Edited by shoei

i spoke to specialised today, and they said they can do it so can racebrakes, but racebrakes want an arm n a leg to do it lol i found a place in qld, they said around 350 per hat... racebrakes is almost double!

i spoke to specialised today, and they said they can do it so can racebrakes, but racebrakes want an arm n a leg to do it lol i found a place in qld, they said around 350 per hat... racebrakes is almost double!

you might want to get a price for the caliper adapters as well these are usually $$$$

but i think u might be better off selling your wheels and buying something that fits

Hats wont move the caliper, as Shoei said - there is more to it, dog bones required or spacers

Penrith brake and clutch can do this too, did plenty of coating work for thier custom brakes.

Specialised brake and cluth (gav sport) is in penrith now too - in peachtree

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...