Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just got myself a blitz spec r boost controller, tough little buggers to track down for a good price...

anyways, a mate and myself will be putting this in hopefully sunday, but neither of us has installed a boost controller before, so i'm keen to see what you guys have done with your installs.

um'ing and ah'ing about the controller location, whether to slip it in the ash try, or the right hand tray under the headlight level adjust, or cut into the spot next to the headlight adjust. Or just double side tape it somewhere.

the other thing is wondering where people have put their solenoids?? The manual says no further than 3 feet from the turbo for best performance.

oh, and which ignition point do people most go off??

so yeah, if anyone has pics of their Spec R installs, that would be awesome! (cabin and engine bay)

my tuner reckons he can get about 200-300rpm better boost response time with one of these, so i'm keen to get it tuned :P

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/243673-blitz-spec-r-boost-controller/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

just got myself a blitz spec r boost controller, tough little buggers to track down for a good price...

anyways, a mate and myself will be putting this in hopefully sunday, but neither of us has installed a boost controller before, so i'm keen to see what you guys have done with your installs.

um'ing and ah'ing about the controller location, whether to slip it in the ash try, or the right hand tray under the headlight level adjust, or cut into the spot next to the headlight adjust. Or just double side tape it somewhere.

the other thing is wondering where people have put their solenoids?? The manual says no further than 3 feet from the turbo for best performance.

oh, and which ignition point do people most go off??

so yeah, if anyone has pics of their Spec R installs, that would be awesome! (cabin and engine bay)

my tuner reckons he can get about 200-300rpm better boost response time with one of these, so i'm keen to get it tuned :P

cheers,

daniel

Hey daniel, I had the hand controller installed in a single din slot pocket with flip tray. As for ignition point, I wired up to the cigarette lighter. Solenoid went by the air filter... careful though as the Spec R noid is friggen huge, so you could end up being defected like me :(

Sorry I don't have any pics, i sold mine on a while back. But I do have a short video

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=eyPFKP90IuQ

Great little EBC.

I've got mine hooked up on the firewall (Stagea's engine bay is pretty cramped). The hand cntroller is on the aircon vent (used an ambi-pur clips - eaiser to take off and hide or for setup)

It still boggles the mind why Blitz has such a massive solenoid for??

Edited by BigDirtyJase

am i correct in saying there's some soldering involved??

hey Howie, unfortunately i have a double din thing going on, so my options are ash tray, or the tray under the headlight adjust knob, or double sided tape. I just don't know how i'd cut a hole out the back of those flip trays?

hmmm... wouldn't have thought the boys in blue would have been switched on enough to pick up a solenoid...

so you guys just drilled some holes to attach the solenoid??

Hey Daniel.. the only soldering I had to do is to splice into the cigarette lighter wire. The ground went back to the chassis. I didn't have to drill any holes to mount the solenoid, when I removed my standard airbox, there was a hole left there - i just put it to better use :( It'd pretty obvious under the bonnet that you've got an aftermarket solenoid, it's got blitz stamped across it :P

is this something you reckon i could have a crack at myself? i'm sooo not DIY, but if it's just connecting some hoses, and using existing holes for the solenoid, i might be able to have a crack.

i can't solder, but i can maybe get the basics done and then take it to my friend to finish off...

It's pretty simple Daniel... if you're not confident have an sau'er or someone look over your shoulder. There's plenty of threads on how to install a profec b on the forums, you can basically do the same thing in terms of installing.

When you're setting up the DSBC, turn it to the off position before setting your gains, limiters etc. Check that the boost reading is accurate. Then start with your limiter, then slowly increase your gain until you're happy with the boost.

gimps, sorry mate, forgot to reply to your post. i paid about $260-$280USD from ebay (second hand)

i've found some good install guides, so i think i might give this a shot myself.

do i have any other options besides soldering? could i just strip the wire back a bit and like wind/clamp it onto something?

if any of you guys would be so gracious as to take a pic of where you put the wires through the firewall that would be awesome!! i got a motorkhana day on saturday, and i hope to fit/tune before then :domokun:

also, did you guys remove the whole centre console bit or is that not necessary.

and i think i'll just double site tape for now, worry about cops later

plan to use this guide

http://www.gtautosound.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=54

another one with pics

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/blitz_dsbc/index.html

any truth to any of this?

"

Also dont cut the boost lines to 'FIT'.

Cut them so they are EVEN, and MAKE them fit by controlling overall length.

- Make sure that the 'rubber' hosing is far away from the heat sheild as it will fracture and become damaged after a few months from the heat.

- Dont use plastic zip ties for actuator ends if your doing a permanent installation. They become brittle and crack with almost no force after a while.

You might take shortcuts on your own car, but in an article preaching the 'truth', you dont take shortcuts!

ps. How do you replace a rubber gromet if the cablings already been threaded.. without cutting it (rendering it useless) or undoing all the cabling and feeding it through again?"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...