Hicas Light On + Heavy Steering

[Sneaky Pete]

Hey guys,

i have the same problem on my R33. Yes the Hicas is electronic not hydraulic, buti think it is still related to the power steering pump. My pump squeals when i start the engine sometimes. Sometimes i have power steering and sometimes i don't. Usually happens when the engine is hot, or a hot day.

Could try replacing the pump as the incorrect fluid pressure seems to trip the hicas light.

hope this helps.

BTW i will be changing my pump in a couple of weeks. will post my results

[Sneaky Pete]

any solutions to this????

my hicas almost always comes on when i turn car off and on within a space of 1-2 hours, if i leave car off longer the hicas light doesnt come back on... t also sometimes comes when i drive.... any answers guys? thread kinda died

mine was doing exactly the same thing, then my powersteering pump started squealing on startup. Most of the time now i have no power steering

see my previous post

[heller44]

Before any more complicated answers, one question..

Have you performed a hicas diagnostic on your car?

A) Yes, and let us know the results..

B) No, go and do one, will find the how to in diy and tute section.

Thank you for your time.

Not going to get an answer?

Oh well, might as well do what everyone else seems to want to do, replace every part of the car in the hope that you will magically replace the one bit that is giving you issues.. fkit, why not the sunvisors as well..

Diagnostics are there to be used.

Some days I just want toast.

[Sneaky Pete]

Not going to get an answer?

Oh well, might as well do what everyone else seems to want to do, replace every part of the car in the hope that you will magically replace the one bit that is giving you issues.. fkit, why not the sunvisors as well..

Diagnostics are there to be used.

Some days I just want toast.

I have done that and it showed that the steering angle sensor and the vehicle speed sensor were faulty. Except there not, as the rear wheels steer when they should and the consult software recognises the speed at which i am travelling.

any thoughts??

[((((hutchy_69)))]

hi guys ive been ready about the hicas and it seems to be a bit of a problem more for the r33 as such.

one day i lost steering and i spent over $800 on rebuilding a rack and pump but none of that was the problem.

as it turns out the hicas computer unplugged it's self dont ask how it happen it just did.

try disconnecting the batterer from negative followed by positive. disconnect hicas computer under the parcel shelf wait for a few min's and plug it back to geather. never know ur luck.

Edited December 2, 2009 by ((((hutchy_69)))

[steve12]

Check the HICAS module doesn't have a leaking capacitor in it as in the thread in the general maintenance section.

It fixed the problem for me.

[Stitch]

Also check this thread that I started a while ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...ow-t261851.html

Same problem.

[Jaredo]

Hey Stich,

Having the same issues, You start the car and its fine for god knows how many K's you drive (did about 20km), but as soon as you stop it and then attempt to start again <2-3mins the HICAS warning light comes on and the system is completely out heavy steering ect. If I leave it for 5mins then start again its fine. I've been able to reproduce it easily but having a aftermarket ECU is making it hard to diagnose.

Pulled the HICAS ECU from the boot replaced the cap that was leaking (C35) also did 2 others next to it while I was at it. I thought I had fixed it but on a quick test run up the road pulled over, switch off then on again and the light is back on and get the same symptoms. Also checked connectors on the HICAS motor @ the rear diff - cleaned with contact cleaner. Again no fix

Its been fine until today where I noticed it for the first time ever. Battery has been swapped out, upgraded the power and earth cables ect(needed a new batt anyway) - this was done before I replaced the caps as above no fix. Prior I put a earthing kit in the engine bay - which is the only large change to the electrics system. Prior to that the dash was out for a heater core but at the time It didn't have issues (a few quick stop and starts while bleeding air ect).

From my limited knowledge of electrics - it definatley seems related to power. Exactly where the issue is has got me. Thinking the rain while driving this morning, but have been driving in rain for the past 3 weeks and never noticed it.

I'll look around the engine bay tommrow, then to the steering position sensor behind the steering wheel. Also hunting a stock ECU for diagnostics.

EDIT: Forgot to mention the car, 94 R33 S1 GTS-T. Only owned it for 6mths but the HICAS system has been serviced - to my knowledge by a Redcliffe company (Brad steering, brake something.)

Edited March 5, 2010 by Jaredo

[Jaredo]

Seems to be time related and to do with the HICAS ECU, or inheriantly voltage drop over repetative engine cranking, but doesn't explain why I can drive for 5mins and reproduce it.

I confirmed the HICAS light on over 3 starts with less than 10 seconds with the ignition in "OFF".

I tested switching off, unplugging - replugging the HICAS ECU and starting the engine - 17seconds and the light is out and everything normal. I've never been able to reproduce more than once

Confirming I have the light on over 3 short starts - switch off the engine and wait 20-30seconds. Restarted and everything is normal. This has worked about 5 times.

I've seen a similar issue with old Computer power supplies where if there's a brownout and power comes back the PC won't start unless you switch off the power supply for 1-2mins.

[Jaredo]

Steering Position sensor is the culprit. I found a R34 Super Hicas manual that lists the pinouts of the HICAS ECU and acceptable voltages. Tested everything on the list and kept getting weird readings from pins 22 and 21 (Steering position signal 1 and 2 respective). In the neutral position pin 21 puts out 5V - this is the netural position signal from the steering position signal. It puts out 0V if moved away from neutral

Pushing the steering wheel left or right resulted in varied voltages from 0v to 5v and this is the allowable range.

Now I came across a scenario where the steering was neutral and both pins 22 and 21 where at 1.46v, and did not change. I started the car and low and behold HICAS light was on.

I mucked around for abit and got 5V on neutral and 0 off neutral and pin 22 showing voltage swings. I started the car and HICAS light was out - and full power steering.

This could explain why I can't get into Diag mode (or not as I'm running a PFC). But It must be ok while driving and doesn't throw a error - Only when powering down and up again in quick succession does it root up. This will also explain why others can't get into Diagnostic mode because neutral position doesn't exist or it doesn't see the turning left to right.

Next thing is where to obtain a steering position sensor lol, yes I could lock it but I would like to retain a working HICAS system.

[awsam]

I posted this is another thread also

******************************

As it's warmed up slightly in Adelaide lately I've now noticed my HICAS issue happening again. Car heats up, turn off then on again.. hicas light and no power steering. I spoke to Synergy Motorsports about a lockbar and after quoting me about $350 inc Bar, I decided to just rip the HICAS fuse out and take it for a test drive.

So I drove my car around for a while today, turned off then back on. No power steering. Turned it off, pulled the fuse. Started the car and went for a short drive and found my power steering was fine. Got home, turned the car off. Put the fuse BACK in, started again and went for a drive... no power steering.

An extra note. Synergy have a Nissan ecu scanner and they tried to get a error code off my hicas but there was no communication. They put another working hicas in and again no communication. Im not sure if they replaced the ECU or the hicas unit in the boot (that silver box next to the fuse box is the hicas amirite?) or if they even got the hicas light on the second time. I musn't have explained my issue clearly as they seemed a little confused at what my problem was when they put the test hicas in. I'm told this could be because of an aftermarket ECU, i honestly haven't looked.

[Munkyb0y]

I posted this is another thread also

******************************

As it's warmed up slightly in Adelaide lately I've now noticed my HICAS issue happening again. Car heats up, turn off then on again.. hicas light and no power steering. I spoke to Synergy Motorsports about a lockbar and after quoting me about $350 inc Bar, I decided to just rip the HICAS fuse out and take it for a test drive.

So I drove my car around for a while today, turned off then back on. No power steering. Turned it off, pulled the fuse. Started the car and went for a short drive and found my power steering was fine. Got home, turned the car off. Put the fuse BACK in, started again and went for a drive... no power steering.

An extra note. Synergy have a Nissan ecu scanner and they tried to get a error code off my hicas but there was no communication. They put another working hicas in and again no communication. Im not sure if they replaced the ECU or the hicas unit in the boot (that silver box next to the fuse box is the hicas amirite?) or if they even got the hicas light on the second time. I musn't have explained my issue clearly as they seemed a little confused at what my problem was when they put the test hicas in. I'm told this could be because of an aftermarket ECU, i honestly haven't looked.

which fuse?

[some_cs_student]

$350 for a lockbar and install? Sound expensive, I bought the lockbar for $80, or less, and the installation wasn't too difficult...

The wheel alignment did cost a bit

[awsam]

$350 for a lockbar and install? Sound expensive, I bought the lockbar for $80, or less, and the installation wasn't too difficult...

The wheel alignment did cost a bit

Yeh I forgot to say that price included balance/alignment.. wanted $150 for the bar though, idk if that comes with the wiring loop for the hicas.

Edited September 28, 2010 by awsam

[awsam]

which fuse?

The 20A fuse in the boot labeled "Hicas" Sorry should have said that.

[Munkyb0y]

yeah i thought it might be that one. cheers.

[BB81DO]

hey all

i have a hicas issue myself now lol

him is only when i sit above 90km/h and it wont go off until i turn the car off it resets itself and then its fine the light is off ....

around town its fine and when it hit the conners its fine until the light comes on and then i have to go back to square one and turn the car off and reset the hicas

any help would be muchly apprecaed

[awsam]

I solved my hicas heat/car on-off hicas issue by putting a s2 hicas ecu into my s1.

A new s1 ecu made no dif, but for some reason a s2 hicas ecu fixed it instantly.

[GTSBoy]

Th R32 HICAS computers had a known fault where one or more of the screws that support the board inside the case would come loose, wander around and short stuff out. It was actually a bulletin that was inserted into the Australian R32 GTR service manual. Even without that, the R32 ones and the R33 S1 ones are all getting quite old now and it is time to expect electrolytic capacitors and so on inside them to start shitting themselves. I suspect we're going to have to get used to such failures.

[glenndrayton]

Hi,

For anyone still interested in this, I had the same issue for the past four years on my 1994 R32 GT-R. The HICAS light would come on a few minutes after driving and the steering would go dead heavy.

I had Nissan and another workshop run the HICAS diagnostics multiple times - no problems: the back wheels did their flappy thing and everything.

Finally, just this week Custom Importz in Lonsdale SA found and fixed the problem. There were actually three faults:

1. The speed sensor in the back of the instrument cluster was faulty.

2. The steering angle sensor was faulty

3. (Not such an issue). One of the rear solenoids was faulty (this did show in up diagnostics but replacing it not fix the issue until the above two were fixed).

For anyone having this problem, follow the advice above to run the HICAS diagnostics, check fluid levels etc, but also get your shop to check these sensors in around the console and steering column. They were the "missing link" that did not show up in diagnostics.

Glenn