Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

Gohan do you seal your glass with FI Seal?

Havent heard of sealing the glass yet, I usually just clay bar .. never polish it either

I sometimes use glass cleaning solution (atm meguiars nxt)

But only ever on the outside surface, since it doesnt say its tint safe ..

otherwise i use FI's Glass system (microfibre + glass cloth)

Hi guys,

I'm a professional glass restorer and am constantly removing hard-water stains from car/boat windows, shower screens etc...

For stage 1 glass corrosion (95% of windows will have at least some of this), I use a product called Winsol Crystal Clear 550 (CC550). This usually removes most of the stains with ease. It works by dissolving the mineral build-up and is the quickest and least messy way of completing the job.

For more stubborn water spots (you can do it this way for light stains too), I use cerium oxide powder which is mixed with demineralised water to form a slurry. I then use a felt pad and polishing tool to polish the stains out. My polishing tool is worth over $1500 but for the DIY guys, you can use a felt pad (purchased from your local hardware store) attached to your household drill and remove the stains this way. It's a lot quicker than polishing by hand but if you have to go down that road, use Superfine Steel Wool (0000 gauge). This is abrasive enough to remove the stains but will not scratch the glass. I get all my supplies from these guys as they are the cheapest around http://fcwc.com.au/shop

Once the glass is restored, I apply a product called Sani-Shield which offers a lasting protection for up to 12 months from the hard-water stains forming again. A cheaper option is RainX

To clean the glass/window/shower screen, simply use soapy solution. You don't want to use anything too harsh otherwise you may compromise the protective sealant.

Thanks for the advise. :cheers:

Hi guys,

I'm a professional glass restorer and am constantly removing hard-water stains from car/boat windows, shower screens etc...

For stage 1 glass corrosion (95% of windows will have at least some of this), I use a product called Winsol Crystal Clear 550 (CC550). This usually removes most of the stains with ease. It works by dissolving the mineral build-up and is the quickest and least messy way of completing the job.

For more stubborn water spots (you can do it this way for light stains too), I use cerium oxide powder which is mixed with demineralised water to form a slurry. I then use a felt pad and polishing tool to polish the stains out. My polishing tool is worth over $1500 but for the DIY guys, you can use a felt pad (purchased from your local hardware store) attached to your household drill and remove the stains this way. It's a lot quicker than polishing by hand but if you have to go down that road, use Superfine Steel Wool (0000 gauge). This is abrasive enough to remove the stains but will not scratch the glass. I get all my supplies from these guys as they are the cheapest around http://fcwc.com.au/shop

Once the glass is restored, I apply a product called Sani-Shield which offers a lasting protection for up to 12 months from the hard-water stains forming again. A cheaper option is RainX

To clean the glass/window/shower screen, simply use soapy solution. You don't want to use anything too harsh otherwise you may compromise the protective sealant.

Thanks for the advice. :cheers:

Another option to try is the kleenex shower wipes. They made for removing sope scum of shower windows and sinks but have found they work extermly well on cars.

first you wipe on the window, then rinse and wipe with a dry cloth.

can be brouht from woolies or coles.

Another option to try is the kleenex shower wipes. They made for removing sope scum of shower windows and sinks but have found they work extermly well on cars.

first you wipe on the window, then rinse and wipe with a dry cloth.

can be brouht from woolies or coles.

There used to be a product available called white powder that was used for this type of work, used it a lot was great.

If it's not available use toothpaste with a buffer if you have one or just a soft cloth and some effort to polish them off...guaranteed to work without wasting $.

Hi Guys,

In regards to stains on glass, the first thing to work out is if it is a deposit sitting on the surface of the glass or has it etched into the glass. Generally if it is a surface deposit it can be removed quite easily with the right products.

One recommendation no has added is to use a glass polish designed for Automotive Glass.

We have a few options available on the Waxit Online Store. You can try having a look here.

Firstly I would try white vinegar on a sponge, this seams to break down the alkaline in the mineral deposits on the glass, Soak a few paper towels in vinegar then leave them on the windscreen for 5-10min. Use another vinegar soaked paper towel to remove now dried paper towel and check to see if this has worked for you.

Gohan do you seal your glass with FI Seal?

Havent heard of sealing the glass yet, I usually just clay bar .. never polish it either

I sometimes use glass cleaning solution (atm meguiars nxt)

But only ever on the outside surface, since it doesnt say its tint safe ..

otherwise i use FI's Glass system (microfibre + glass cloth)

Yep, last time i was putting SEAL down on the car, i did glass as well. Nothing sheets water quicker on the car than the glass, fun to watch :) I clay, and machine polish the glass everytime i detail. Add a wax or sealant ontop and it's damn slippy :D Be careful with windscreens as some products can react a little funny, but i haven't had any issues with Seal regular or P21s

I have the FI glass cloth, but it's for the inside only as far as i know. Works great and i use it with Stoners invisible glass, fantastic product for the inside.

If you're inside glass is really dirty i will either do a warm water wipe down with glass MF to get rid as much of the build-up as possible, rinsing regularly (you'll see the green MF looking pretty dirty quickly) THEN do the Stoners invisible glass. You could do a couple passes of invisible glass, but the key is having the glass MF squeaky clean for the next wipe down. Absolute must.

i clayed the windows on this detail but i was really worried about marring them so i lubed the crap out of the windows haha

bit hestitant to machine polish though, doing my first machine polish on the 34 at the moment, 2 passes of CAP medium and 1 or 2 of CAP extra fine, still only done 1 of CAP medium though :(

I'll definitely give my windows a seal as I do the car :) although i have heard that they are making a glass sealant :)

my inside glass is never dirty for some reason, i just use water on the glass MF and the glass cloth.

im still using my meguiars NXT gen glass cleaner on the outside (not too sure if its tint safe so dont use it on inside)

and i get what you mean about having clean cloths ... we use rags at work to clean windows takes me almost 20 minutes per car just to do glass ... with a good MF and stuff at home it takes me all of 2-5 minutes i think?

i find you can put a bit of pressure on the glass, i use to just use my old Edge green pad with a medium polish. So FI Orange with med would be find i reckon, pretty sure i did that last time. It's tougher than your paint, so don't worry too much :)

Wow lots of different ways to clean glass but by far the best is MOTHERS- Glass Cleaner Pro Strength Formula Ammonia Free

Been using it all year and its the ONLY product on the market to promise SAFE ON TINT also doesn't leave marks or anything on trim

Works great on showers to woot.gif

Wow lots of different ways to clean glass but by far the best is MOTHERS- Glass Cleaner Pro Strength Formula Ammonia Free <div>Been using it all year and its the ONLY  product on the market to promise SAFE ON TINT also doesn't leave marks or anything on trim </div><div>Works great on showers to <img src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/woot.gif" alt=":woot:" class="bbc_emoticon"></div>

most of the detailing stuff you buy online such as stoners from FI is all tint safe

but yeah the megs NXT glass cleaner i use doesnt really advertise tint safe ....

  • 1 month later...

Well i been on the net looking for a solution and nothing seems to work on my beautiful water stains on my windows :domokun: (vinegar, autoglym polish, rainx stong cleaning stuff, lemon juice, razor, toothpaste, ultimate compound etc...) I tried everything, then i saw an old kitten cutting compound in the shed n tried it on a MF pad + sprayed some quick detailer as lub and started rubbing and it all vanished, bit of elbow grease (not to much pressure we don't want to scratch it ) and it was gone, but gotta be careful to use clean MF cloth to wipe out and not let dry, kinda barbarian but works

Well i been on the net looking for a solution and nothing seems to work on my beautiful water stains on my windows (vinegar, autoglym polish, rainx stong cleaning stuff, lemon juice, razor, toothpaste, ultimate compound etc...) I tried everything, then i saw an old kitten cutting compound in the shed n tried it on a MF pad + sprayed some quick detailer as lub and started rubbing and it all vanished, bit of elbow grease (not to much pressure we don't want to scratch it ) and it was gone, but gotta be careful to use clean MF cloth to wipe out and not let dry, kinda barbarian but works

Well i been on the net looking for a solution and nothing seems to work on my beautiful water stains on my windows (vinegar, autoglym polish, rainx stong cleaning stuff, lemon juice, razor, toothpaste, ultimate compound etc...) I tried everything, then i saw an old kitten cutting compound in the shed n tried it on a MF pad + sprayed some quick detailer as lub and started rubbing and it all vanished, bit of elbow grease (not to much pressure we don't want to scratch it ) and it was gone, but gotta be careful to use clean MF cloth to wipe out and not let dry, kinda barbarian but works

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
×
×
  • Create New...