Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure about how hard the R33 one is to get to, but mate had a 300ZX which had to have the entire dashboard removed to get to it. Job ended up being about 100 dollars in parts and 700 in labour.

Just hope its easy to get to. If you can, take it out yourself and get it repaired/replaced, that way you save a heap of cash. You can still drive the car around without it for a while if you plug up the water lines on the firewall.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24372-heater-core/#findComment-520497
Share on other sites

yeah mines been dead for over a year :( just got a new core on order from japan through UAS! still waiting for that to come in, will post a walkthrough and some pics if you still wanna do it yourself!! heard it is easier that the Zeds to do!!

had the dash off for the respray, only hard part is getting it over the steering wheel, but you just take that off too!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24372-heater-core/#findComment-520974
Share on other sites

wrxetr, take the heater tank out and take it to a radiator repairer , if its coroded he maybe able to get a new core to match then he uses ur tank and puts the new core and its as good as new as for r+r heater tank i dont know how hard it is on the sky , u may have to have the dash out though to get to it , most cars u do .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24372-heater-core/#findComment-521096
Share on other sites

Originally posted by red17

Not sure about how hard the R33 one is to get to, but mate had a 300ZX which had to have the entire dashboard removed to get to it. Job ended up being about 100 dollars in parts and 700 in labour.  

Just hope its easy to get to. If you can, take it out yourself and get it repaired/replaced, that way you save a heap of cash. You can still drive the car around without it for a while if you plug up the water lines on the firewall.  

Red17

Just wanna agree, a friend's 300 has this problem, he tried to remove the dash and apparently it is basically if not definetly impossible to remove it without breaking bits. And it will drive Are you positively annoyed friend? trying to take everything off. Hope the r33 dash isnt so bad. Ive installed a head unit in mine, it was simple so thats a good sign...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24372-heater-core/#findComment-521536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...