Car Detailer/paint Protection

[Carbon 34]

hope you like regency

''

there is a company who produces ADR compliant bonnets in OZ. and mine will be painted white to match the car not left black.

regency can get stuffed. lol its like a toll road for imports , keep the volume up for filling the accounts of the state ?

for those of you who have been thru regency is there a que of holdens,fords, and other cars or is it just imported cars?

I spoke to them on my RZ supra and i got 4 different answers from rego,cops and regency inspectors. its a joke and thats a car thats been in OZ for a while in QLD. pretty much have to changes everything on the car to pass from what they told me.. but somehow they missed my R34 not even having a seat belt mounted on the passenger seat when it was complied in january? hmmmm safety inspection at its finest ?. proves the money pit syndrome...lol

Edited November 21, 2008 by sapphiregraphics

[scandyflick]

yeah, blits do adr compliant kits. not sure if they do cf though?

[Carbon 34]

yeah, blits do adr compliant kits. not sure if they do cf though?

yeah either way im sure its lighter then steel, and vented. cause it gets a bit hot here in summer under boost..lol

my car is just a daily driver toy not a race car so its all good

[Silhouette31]

I may be wrong but if you look in to how the orbital buffer works,im sure that inside it has a motor that repeats itself in the same direction,most cant use without leaving marks,but as you said everyone takes to it in their own way,good to hear you have your technique sorted,is a skill lots of people cant master.

Your exactly right though no matter what product you use,use it enough in the right way and your car can continue to look great for ever

Oh and I left detailing to be the boss of others,i sit at my desk searching ebay all day long,moneys bout same without having to raise a sweat these days,except for doing my own cars etc

You at a dealership or detailing shop?

In 4 weeks after 4 years of detailing, I go onto a new job at a brand new dealership in charge of detailers and mechanics and such Can't wait for that..

[SLED]

sorry to keep flogging a dead horse but this question is probably moreso directed to either Troy, Damo or Kevin.

I was thinking that the Tech Wax 2.0 is the way to go as a final application but out of the following 3 products, (and I don't want to use all of them) which would you recommend for light fall out & light swirl marks prior to the final application??

Surface Prep

[tryandcatchme]

You at a dealership or detailing shop?

In 4 weeks after 4 years of detailing, I go onto a new job at a brand new dealership in charge of detailers and mechanics and such Can't wait for that..

Nope just myself and my knowledge these days,over the years done all sorts of these roles etc

Sounds like your doing something right,excellent

[Silhouette31]

sorry to keep flogging a dead horse but this question is probably moreso directed to either Troy, Damo or Kevin.

I was thinking that the Tech Wax 2.0 is the way to go as a final application but out of the following 3 products, (and I don't want to use all of them) which would you recommend for light fall out & light swirl marks prior to the final application??

Surface Prep

If there's light fallout, you most likely won't get it off with any hand polishing. Best bet is to carefully claybar the whole car.

most of the time swirls can't be removed by hand unless they're really light, in which case you'd use scratch-x after claying. Another option is Meguiars "Speedglaze" which I use at work.

Then after that you need to seal it with a wax or polish to prevent further fallout, since scratch-x/speedglaze is a cutting compound and not a sealant.

I prefer to use wax as it leaves a glossier finish, but doesn't last as long as polish (such as meguiars wet-look). The wax I use at work isn't generally available at shops and you have to buy it in a 1gallon bottle. From meguiars, either use Wet-Look (polish, dont need to apply as often) or Colour Boost (wax, glossier finish but more frequent application neccessary).

Since I don't mind working on my car once every month or 2, I use wax...

Dunno if that helps or not. On a silver car you generally can't see scratches or swirls unless they're fairly extreme.

[Luke_ENR34]

what do all u guys think of auto-glym? Ive been using that and seems to me works better then the tech wax.

[SLED]

thanks Kevin...........so where does the Tech Wax 2.0 fall into the final equation?

[Carbon 34]

sorry pete missed your request, When you "felt up" my car fender it had a coat of tech wax 2.0 on it . about a week old. not clay bar for over a month or more

it wasnt even washed just dusted off and NXT spray detailer ,wiped off. and yes it sits out in the elements and driven daily ..lol

the process I had to do to remove the hazing and acid rain from Osaka Japan was megs. m105 with orbital buffer on a foam pad, then Megs show car glaze/sealer by hand, then a coat of liquid NXT 2.0 by hand , only because thats what I had on hand? when its gone im moving completely to the pro range. the M105 might be too much for your car, Id try the scratch X first then the sealer/ and NXT 2.0 , the NXT goes one very easy and comes off with ease compared to some of the others . if you want to try some scratch X I can bring some to villis to test by hand ?

the NXT wont fix the haze on your bonnet but will shine nice, for that you will need a bit more work then that. but like most things go with the least aggressive first , if in doubt get your paint thickness checked first? I just went for it without problems and I tried scratch X first but it still left me with a bit of haze that annnoyed me. Yes I did the whole car in heavy cut M105 with a buffer it made a huge difference in the shine on the sides too. a big suprise ? cause I thought they looked pretty shiny aready..lol non pro retail of nearly 100 bucks but its majic..lol well worth it.not like the old product that turn your buffer pads the colour of the car..lol very very mild for a heavy cut liquid.not something you would have to do over and over, just once.

PS.the guys who did the detail on my car upon import should have just left it alone they made a mess of it , so much for PRO's ?

I asked Megs in USA about the long term wear of the NXT 2.0 wax. it was a complaint from others as well, it doesnt seem to last a long time in the open like the paste carnubas do ? I havent tried the NXT 2.0 paste which might be better? I do like the way it comes off after applying it, so easy compared to most. doesnt kill your arms. and doesnt get much dust /static build up.

it does bead up water,,not hydrophobic like advertised..lol overall Id say its pretty good for the money and does shine more then the gold class line. for the 20 bucks or so it cost I would recommend it. over anything in the price range?

just rememeber if you need paintwork done, advise the painter its on the car, the paint wont stick since its a synthetic based product with silicones in it

not safe for a paint shop enviroment like the pro products

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Ive used autoglym with pretty average results, not bad just not as good as I was looking for in my paint. if your paint isnt damaged it would be ok to use just doesnt last long either? Sonex the same ? Turtle wax, in usa ,, never again..lol, eagle one , good glass cleaner for cheap otherwise no for the wax. Mothers yes, another great brand I use sometimes. the can carnuba is a lot of work but looks nice and last a long time. cost a bit much here and a lot of work to apply without streaks. zymoil and smells so good, looks nice but is a pain to apply on black cars and cost a fortune, the leather conditioner is tops on worn leather, makes it butter soft. and kitten I wouldnt use on anything.

there are alot more not listed but unless you want to use pro product that cost a lot or require a good buffer/skills Id stick to the main brands or ask a pro rather then destroy your paint to save a few bucks. ask more then one person too.lol

hope that helps pete..? sorry i can ramble on