Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Tezzah said:
I used a 4inch grinder with a 10mm thick grinding disc.

crude, but all i had.

I used the same tool. It was all I had at the time also.

If you're going to buy a grinder, I suggest you get a disc that is thinner than 10mm as this will make it easier for you to cut through your bar.

Just make sure you mark up the guidelines PROPERLY as you don't want to cut too much off.

  EeLeYe said:
I used the same tool. It was all I had at the time also.

If you're going to buy a grinder, I suggest you get a disc that is thinner than 10mm as this will make it easier for you to cut through your bar.

Just make sure you mark up the guidelines PROPERLY as you don't want to cut too much off.

Yeah what he said ^

Get like a 2mm cutting disc on a 4" grinder, thats all you need.

Take your time if you want it nice!!!!

i just used a handsaw, the ones made for cutting metal... worked a treat.

i can also vouch for the dremel, i used that to cut through the fire wall, made it so much easier to get to, but it went through alot of cutting disc's.

For the reinforcement/metal bar. i used an angle grinder.

For the plastic bar, i used a hack-saw, and when the saw couldn't make the bend, removed the blade and held it with a tea-towel to continue, especially on any curves. Sanded the edges afterwards to clean it up.

Use some rust proofing paint on the metal edges when done too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
    • Such a cool collection of cars back then.  
    • Mystery solved, thanks bro Bit of a strange mix, but i dont mind it, still looks good. 
    • nah no problems with bearings or hubs.  just the water pump leak and my AC death
×
×
  • Create New...