Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im really keen on giving it a shot but not in my car, so I want to by something under 2grand and head out to Mallala for a practice.

Can someone here tell me whats involved? Costs? Car reqirements, licences etc?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244095-so-if-i-want-to-drift-one-day/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Of course, tow the car out there, and ensure the vehicle towing is in road worthy condition :laugh:

... or you can do what the NS boys do, and drive the car out there with front bumper missing, fmic in-ya-face, and then whinge about how the cops pulled you into a defect station and defected you :ninja:

Edited by RubyRS4
Of course, tow the car out there, and ensure the vehicle towing is in road worthy condition :laugh:

... or you can do what the NS boys do, and drive the car out there with front bumper missing, fmic in-ya-face, and then whinge about how the cops pulled you into a defect station and defected you :ninja:

Haha wow. Yeah wont be doing this

As for costs and requirements.

A normal prac day is about $125 last time I went out.

$10 at the gate

$90 to go on the track (or it may be $80 I can't remember :laugh:)

$25 for a one-day CAMS licence

Then theres a full tank of petty, tyres and whatever else you might chew through.

I used to budget about $250-$300 each prac, as I'd just get cheap as possible second hand tyres for the back from the various tyre places I've worked at over the years :(

I've never towed my car out, just make sure your car is presentable (or drive a JZX100, the coppers waved me through last prac in my 100, they probably thought I was someones parent in a Camry going out there to watch :ninja:)

Edited by AndrewJZX100
... or you can do what the NS boys do, and drive the car out there with front bumper missing, fmic in-ya-face, and then whinge about how the cops pulled you into a defect station and defected you :ninja:

on the contrary, ive been one of the few cars that were defected in the blitz police were doing at mallala for a bit there, i was defected for my cracked indicator lense. most of the real ghetto cars are trailered out there.

... or you can do what the NS boys do, and drive the car out there with front bumper missing, fmic in-ya-face, and then whinge about how the cops pulled you into a defect station and defected you :ninja:

Saw a stag sporting this FMIC IN YA FACE look driving in Norwood on sunday. Wasnt me and wont go naming any names... Whos gonna guess who it was? up for grabs is this ziplock bag full of... AIR!

AE86 aka tureno if you can find one that cheap

:ninja: yeah good luck with that.

Go the 31 if you just wanna go out and thrash something. Take your 34 out there if you want to learn more about the car/driving in general. Once you get over the fear of bending a good car its much more fun.

agree with those that said to get a KE of some sort or your good old 31! Then budget for tow/trailor, entry, get some 2nd hand tyres..

Ive just picked myself up a KE35 for $300 and will doing a few basic mods (welded diff, stiffer springs) and taking it out to drift prac next early next year!

Eventually tho id love to go to something like an S13.. but all depends how I go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...