Jump to content
SAU Community

Taking Off My Screamer Pipe

rx313b

By rx313b,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rx313b Apprentice

rx313b

Posted
Posted

hi guys.. jsut installed a new turbo setup. i modified my gtst manifold for the external wastegate and then a screamer on the bottom of that but i realised it makes it lag and loose heaps and heaps of power. the screamer is too loud and isnt even making the car faster.. its not goin as good as i want it to.. how can i remove the screamer and is it worth doin. do i seal the bottom of the wastegate where screamer was.. do i just reweld it to my dump... how do i get rid of the screamer and add the power loss...if tehre are any...

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244228-taking-off-my-screamer-pipe/
Share on other sites
rx313b Apprentice

rx313b

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hi just get a return pipe welded back into the dump pipe.

but having a screamer pipe wont make you loose power and also wont make it faster just louder dont seal off the wastegate its there for a reason .

hope that helps

but its a vent before the exhaust... any leak before the exhuast n muffler process its loss of power... i notice that i have more boost when im not in screamer pipe opening up.. and wen opens its hell as laggy and like its holding back... its a 3076r with about 280rkw and moves like my old 2540 HKS with only 240rkw.. lol

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
i realised it makes it lag and loose heaps and heaps of power.

How did you realise this?

and how did you come to this conclusion?

A wastegate works when target boost is achieved... so before that, its shut and not 'screaming'... therefore impossible too cause lag and loose power.

If anything screamers can increase power, this is only the case if your exhaust is restrictive however. If your exhaust flows, there is no difference

the screamer is too loud and isnt even making the car faster.. its not goin as good as i want it to.. how can i remove the screamer and is it worth doin.

refer to the first part... The screamer is not to blame. It would be boost controller/wastegate spring only.

So IMO... not worth doing as its not a problem

From a legal standpoint it should be plumbed in, but thats about it.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
i dont mean lag... it seems somewhat restrictive... feels like it wants to move but doesnt when opening it up

well totally unrelated to a screamer dude... no idea how you end up with that result

It'll be...

- Boost/boost control related... ie the gate is opening too early, target boost not reached

- Tune, or something affecting it (timing of cam gears, fuel pump dying perhaps) and so on

- Clutch possibly wearing out

and other reasons im sure others can offer up

Ryanrb25 Grand Master

Ryanrb25

Posted
Posted (edited)

Perhaps the stupidly ridiculous noise coming out of the screaming is giving you a false feel with your car, i found that in a couple of cars, when the gate opens and its so ear piercingly loud you tend to expect so much more. Plumb it back in and you tend to feel the car pulling rather than hearing it.

Edited by Ryanrb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...