Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Lately my passenger window has gotten tempremental. Sometimes it just doesn't work. The switch still click's, but the window just won't go down :blink:

Hasn't anyone else had this problem? Is it common? and more importantly, does anyone know how to fix it?

PS, it's a 350gt coupe

Edited by Blitz_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244340-electric-window-problems/
Share on other sites

reading from the american forums, it is a very common problem on the V35 / G35 cars

the window motor needs to be replaced. if you go to nissan and order one they will slug you one hefty bill (around $700)

i have seen them for sale on ebay oem genuine parts for much cheaper. i dont know if it is a problem with left / right had side as in america everything is switched?

-mark

Thanks for that blistc. I thought it was the motor as i checked all the connection to it with the multimeter and it is receiving the signal. I'll have to get my hands on a new motor.

The thing is, if I do get it to open it will continue to work properly as long as I don't fully close it. Like I've been worried that if I open it it won't close, but that never happens. Does that still sound like it's the motor then?

replace it BEFORE it quits. thye drop when you open/close the door so if it breaks then you will have a small gap to deal with.

the USDM window bits are the same. its the locks that are different.

how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

Edited by BLISTC
how much are they

the reason being, is that we could probably save $$$ on shipping, and being such a common problem i am a bit worried it might happen to me.

with your car only doing 22,000 kms and the motors failing, im worried because ive done double that amount of kms, but havent experienced that problem yet. and i put my windows down every time i get in the car

-mark

My Passenger side has just stated doing exactly the same thing. very temperamental! interested to know how much it is for a new motor. My car is still under warranty, and the window motor is on the list of defects that the warranty covers..so i might have to sit tight till it happens. My car has just clocked 40k too

Found this on the net, will give it a shot tomorrow

We started having a problem with the driver side window on our 2004 G35 Coupe. It would roll down, but then wouldn't come back up unless you slammed the door a time or two. Went to the forums and saw that quite a few people have had the same problem. Noticed one in particular that said that you should regrease the regulator before the motor burned out. Well, when I finally went to fix ours, the motor appeared to be shot. It no longer would even go down. I took it apart with the idea of replacing the motor ($282) and possibly the regulator ($95). Before I did that, I took the motor off and hooked it up to a 12 volt power source. There are 6 pins in the connector, two on one side and four on the other. I applied 12 volts across the two on the one side, and the motor turned! Switching the leads, it turned the way. I put it back in the regulator and worked it up and down, no problem. No problem, at least until I let the regulator go all the way to one end, which left the cables tight, and the motor a little bound up. The motor would no longer function.

I took the motor off and then took it apart by removing the housing, which is held on by three small screws. I was very surprised at the amount of dirty grease that was present all around the brushes. I cleaned up the brushes and the surface of the commutator and put it back together. I put it in the regulator and let it bind a bit. No problem, it would come alive as soon as I applied voltage. I put it back in the car, remembering to reset the position sensor, as discussed in service bulletin ITB04-033, and now the window is working as it should.

Good work, blitz boy.

I did a very similar thing to a seized motor on a R33 Side Mirror that wouldn't fold in...

It was never going to turn and was locked solid... still works now about 6 years later.

Where did you get a copy of the Service Bulletin and can they all be downloaded?

Motor is shagged!!

should I order 80731-CD00A or 80731-CD001 ?? Is there a difference?

Pretty sure they are the same part. I had the same problem, cleaned the bushes of the motor, worked fine for a couple of months and then the same problem again (had read this on the internet that it was not worth cleaning them, because that is what happens, and sure enough it did). I was fortunate to be in the US on holidays, so bought the replacement from a Nissan Dealer.

Pretty annoying problem for a so-called luxury car, have not had a power window problem in any car for years, but it seems this is pretty common. Having said that though, there are people with older cars on forums that have had no trouble, so it seems to be a common problem, but not universal.

  • 5 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.
    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
×
×
  • Create New...