Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you ever got an official 1/4 mile drag time, ever wondered what your car would do? and do it legally?

Here's your chance to find out have some fun and maybe win some prizes at the same time.

From speaking to the officials what I can organise is for a special slip lane so we can race Supra V Skyline for the night, or if there numbers are not so high, Skyline V Skyline. If we get enough numbers there may be some minor media attention HPI etc.

What people will have to do is be able to leave Canberra at about 1pm on a Wednesday. This event will be on regardless of numbers and the cost will not change due to numbers. NSW SAU and NSW SUPRA's are most welcome

I will book a date with at least 4 weeks notice. I will be going for some fun and pics.

Please post your interest in this thread.

How the Drags work

Location: Eastern Creek Raceway, Sydney

Time: 5pm Entry and Scrutineering with racing from 6pm to 10pm

Date: Every Wednesday night

Cost: $50 to race

Notes:

Scrutineering from 5pm until 7.30pm (unless 200 car quota filled before 7.30pm)

Important Items to bring: Current Drivers Licence, Long sleeved shirt and pants, Helmet

More information: http://www.wsid.com.au

Each competing vehicle will be entitled to two crew members. Crew members will be required to sign an indemnity and will be issued with wrist bands. This will allow them to accompany the vehicle to the start line area while the vehicle is racing. $20 each or $20 for spectators.

The only open vehicles that will be allowed to compete are street-registered hot rods. (Sorry Michele, you will have to bring the GTS-T

If the vehicle runs quicker than 11.99 seconds the driver is required to hold a current ANDRA licence. You can purchase if/when you run between 11sec and 11.99 sec ($150 I think with a $20 discount applied?). Seriously you will be looking at needing 300kw+ for this. I've been told Ross's 430kw Supra did a 12.7.

All vehicles must have an exhaust system with functional mufflers that will ensure the noise level does not exceed 95db when measured at 30 metres. That is very loud.

I don't even come close to the "needed" power output, but I just want to know what my car can do.

Doesn't have to be serious anyway does it?

So I'm tentatively interested.

Need a date first...

This is just an expression of interest. I'm not going to hold you so it seeing as it will be 2-3 months in the future. Are you interested in taking half a day off work on a Wednesday to drive to Sydney to attend a drag meet. We will probably get home about 1am.

I'm about to get my car back after an 11 month engine rebuild.

It should be run in by then so I am definitely in.

Not really interested in taking it too seriously but would like to know what it is now capable of.

Ill have to organise a time to meet everyone though ;)

- Pete

Edited by noakespg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...