Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just changed my r33 airbag wheel to a sports wheel. the wiring i have from the bosskit only has one bit that goes to the horn button and another bit hanging off it that looks to be a fuse but i cant see anywhere to earth the other bit of the horn to. would the fuse bit be the earth now or what? i didnt get another bit of wire to put on the other horn terminal on the horn pad like i thought you usually use to earth like commodores and stuff. any info on this mates?

also i needed to remove the fuse from the fuse box from the horn coz my old horn was sticking on and i dont have a fuse box cover so i dont know where to put a horn fuse and what voltage it is. can someone scan up there fuse box lid or tell me what one to put in and which slot to put it in please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244718-just-changed-r33-steering-wheel/
Share on other sites

like i thought you usually use to earth like commodores and stuff. any info on this mates?

LOL :yucky:

mate... alot of electrical items need earthing.. houses for example.. it's not just commodores.. now i'm not sure if it's the same sorta kit (ours was hooked up to a hilux).. but i think the boss kits have their own ground on it.. so that extra wire can just be tucked away down the middle of the boss kit..

i was using the commodore as an example not implying it was the only car thet needs to be grounded.

there is no spare wire to leave hanging. there is one plug from the car which plugs into the wiring for the bosskit that goes to one spade bit on the horn button. there is another wire handing off the side of the new plug which goes to the horn button. would that be the ground now and i just leave the other spade bit on the horn button with nothing connected?

id test it but i dont have a fuse connected to the horn in the fuse box so i dunno if its right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...