Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi mates, So i understand when tuning with wide band i should turn O2 feedback off on the Power FC.

on low loads the 02 sensor is there in closed loop for fuel economy

full loads it's open loop.

so if i wrote a inj map how does the cars ecu know how to regulate the AFR's ???????????????? if a narrow band is useless for tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244750-question-on-02-sensor/
Share on other sites

The reason the narrow band isn't used for tuning is because it in only accurate around the 14.7:1 stoichiometric point; therefore it is no good for tuning as your are interested in the 11:1>13:1 area.

It is good for closed loop how ever as this is the area the ECU is interested in for economy.

The Wideband however is accurate over the whole AFR range as it has basically a linear relationship between Voltage output and AFR.

O2 Sensor Output

o2volts.gif

Wideband O2 Sensor output

lsu4_wb.gif

Edited by D_Stirls
The reason the narrow band isn't used for tuning is because it in only accurate around the 14.7:1 stoichiometric point; therefore it is no good for tuning as your are interested in the 11:1>13:1 area.

It is good for closed loop how ever as this is the area the ECU is interested in for economy.

The Wideband however is accurate over the whole AFR range as it has basically a linear relationship between Voltage output and AFR.

O2 Sensor Output

o2volts.gif

Wideband O2 Sensor output

lsu4_wb.gif

I guess the only there question would be why didn't the factory's use a wide band.

thanks Mate.

Narrowbands are basically a binary device. They see mixtures as simply lean or rich - there' no useable "its correct" value. The ECU then goes through a constant cycle of lean up the mixture until the narrowband says 'lean' then richening it up until the narrowband says 'rich' over and over again. You can see this if you watch the narrowbands output in via consult.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...