Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Thinking of parting out with my engine.

It tisssss

originally from a 1992 R32, was put into an R31 Ti in 2006.

Engine currently has aroudn 140 000k's on it, i've put near 20 thou on it since owning it in April.

Serviced religiously every 5000k's by myself and the previous owner was also extremely tight arsed about it as well.

Engine is not heavily modded, only running 3inch zorst from turbo back and FMIC at 11psi.

Will be getting a dyno readout next weekend at the Cairns Auto Spectacular.

This package will include:

RB20DET Complete Engine

Loom

Standard ECU

R32 RB20 5speed manual gearbox

Exceedy brass button ceramic clutch

All oil and water lines.

At the moment it is an expression of interest as I weigh up my options.

This engine surprised the shit out of me when I first got it and even now, I didn't think it would pull as hard as what it does.

The engine is not thrashed and has seen a drift day and will be seeing its second motorkhana this sunday (come out for a look/ride). I change the oil before and after these events. Has not missed a beat since owning it.

If you would like pictures or more information, just PM me. PM me for a price too, looking at offers around $2000 but PM me what you got/willing to pay.

Also have a Garret GT28/71 turbo that can go with it or be sold seperately maybe. I have not put it on the engine, and I bought it off a mate in Brisbane who had it on his rb25 and only ran ~2500k's with it on.

Is modified to suit 20/25 manifolds.

RRP is 1895 from Garret.com, looking at around $1000. As again, PM me with what you got.

Cheers, Todd.

does the 2871r come with lines? or just the turbo?

Just the turbo mate. I haven't had it on my engine to take the lines off.

Hey mate,

Turbo suits RB20 and 25 manifolds, I didn't think they were a T3 only because the VL T3 turbs wouldn't fit on my 20.

Am willing to post to Adelaide, PM me a postcode and I can get a rough price too you. For $1000 I will include postage, Aust wide.

Check out this link for more info: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/hpiab2/category12_1.htm

It is the one that RRP for $1825.

I have spoken to the previous owner of this turbo who is a member of SAU and SAUQLD and he bought the turbo from the Garret turbo wholesaler (forget name) in Brisvegas.

Anymoer info, please just ask :(

Cheers, Todd.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...