Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

newbie question.

I saw a Eng No. of R33 start as RB25...., but I quite sure that r33 has a turbo and someont told me it is r33 GTST. I'm confused, I think GTST would be start as RB25DET...

By the way, I haven't chect the number on engine, I just read it from the rego which pasted under windscreen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24482-confused-by-eng-no/
Share on other sites

the engine designation model is an RB25DET - that is what nissan calls it. The Engine Number is stamped in the block, near at the rear behind the turbo - it starts with the block type (in this case 'RB') and then a bunch of numbers and/or letters that mean pretty much bugger all to you and i. To nissan however, it should mean something :confused:

You won't find "RB25DET" stamped anywhere on the engine or firewall. You will find it on the build plate and/or compliance plate.

The engine number like Ronin09 said is stamped behind the turbo, and in your case should read something like "RB25 XXXXXXx".

Your chassis number is stamped on the firewall and will read something like "BCR33-XXXXXX" like rob77 said.

The VIN is the long, rectangular plate pot-riveted onto the firewall.

For example(my car is an R32 GTS-4):

My engine number is "RB20 XXXXXXA"

My chassis number is "HNR32-XXXXXX"

My VIN is "6T91XXXXXXXXXXXXX"

You derive "RB25DET" by what the car is equiped with.

"RB": RB=block type/series, "25" 2.5 litre engine capacity, D=Double overhead cam (DOHC), E=Electronic fuel injection (EFI), and T=Turbo/Turbocharged.

Hope this helps.

cobo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
    • The nature of my commute has changed. Way back then it was traffic lights all the way, for ~28km. It sucked. When they finally stitched the expressway together I could do a good 15+km of it at a steady 80-100 with no stopping. That alone has gotten me down to flat 10s. Prior to that it was mid-high 10s. I can't remember the delta that I saw when I got the idle down. It was only ~150 rpm, because the idle speed was never terrible, but for the delta in consumption to be noticeable it would have had to have been at least 0.2-0.3 L/100km - which is not to be sneezed at when it comes for absolute free. It's only about 50L per year, but that's ~$100. A few extra pizzas is always welcome. Note that I have a record of every tank of fuel that has ever gone through my car except for a handful put in by someone else, like my mechanic. I can show you the difference between stock RB20 and tuned RB20, stock RB5Neo and tuned, winter and summer fuel blends, winter and summer fuel blends when the ambient temperature is not appropriate for the blend, working O2 sensor, blown O2 sensor, boosting f**k out of it and frightened to boost it because it is pinging, and so on. OK, I probably can't do all that now with 100% clarity - but at the time when any of those things were in event, you could see it in the records. There's 25+ years of simple tank after tank records, so you have to look for landmarks to work out approximately how old any single record is. What's really important is the meta data and that lives in my head.
    • If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...