Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Was putting a Hi-Flow panel filter in the stag the other day and was wondering what the material is that is sort of clipped on to the top of the air box? The only reason i can think of for it to be their is for sound deadening? What do you guys think? Thinking if thats the only reason its going to get removed :banana:

Here it is:

post-40162-1226665272_thumb.jpg

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/
Share on other sites

my k&n filter instructions say it's a "charcoal barrier and is part of the emissions system"

i left mine on cause there's no real gain in taking it off..

k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4262621
Share on other sites

k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

I got rid of my pod and put a Pipercross PP1128-MX in the airbox (cheaper than other brands) and put the snorkel back on. I am going to cut a hole in the front of the top half of the box and run a pipe from behind the LH headlight to add to the cold air supply.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4263002
Share on other sites

i might pull it out then... no airbox lid feels more responsive, and no different to a pod?(filter on obviously)
Well that's right... no airbox lid will be similar to the pod in that your incoming air will be subject to the hot underbonnet temperatures. That's why you are better to leave the lid on and use the standard snorkel and/or a cold air supply system.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4263319
Share on other sites

Well that's right... no airbox lid will be similar to the pod in that your incoming air will be subject to the hot underbonnet temperatures. That's why you are better to leave the lid on and use the standard snorkel and/or a cold air supply system.

i am aware of that, the snorkel stayed on obviously... lid has been back on for a while, was just curious ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4264204
Share on other sites

how would it "deaden" any sound since the air is going in through a snorkel and a intake pipe and a filter that has no sound proofing

it would'nt just be that specific spot that would create a sound, would it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267225
Share on other sites

k&n. can you feel the gain, is it like having no box?

reason im asking, im using a pod atm wanna go back to box

It add's a little more response and it seems to pull a little harder than with a paper filter and it lasts a lifetime, apparently.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267228
Share on other sites

how would it "deaden" any sound since the air is going in through a snorkel and a intake pipe and a filter that has no sound proofing

it would'nt just be that specific spot that would create a sound, would it?

I'm guessing it has an effect on how the air circulates within the airbox, and this is what reduces the noise. Maybe it creates sound at a certain frequency which "cancels out" other noises which naturally occur at an opposite end of the frequency range. This is how sound-cancelling headphones work, so maybe this is similar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4267255
Share on other sites

im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4276578
Share on other sites

im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

oiled filter can foul the AFM, go with a dry filter such as an apex or similar panel or pod(even some cheaper brands should be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4277153
Share on other sites

im thinkn of replacing my stock panel with a k&n and somehow custom a larger snorkel and add a deflector. i think thatl be easiest way of improving flow and keep temp to min.

anyone done anything simalar.

Yep I got rid of my pod and fitted the original airbox and snorkel with a pipercross (PP1128-MX)filter. I am hoping to get an air deflector next month and I am also planning to cut a hole in the top of the airbox and run a pipe from behind the left hand headlight for an extra cold air supply. Will post up pics when done.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244859-stock-airbox-q/#findComment-4277347
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...