Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok coil packs are finally on there way, i bit the bullet and conned my parentals into buying them for me.

retracted - it is a wgnc34 thus rs4s :) yay for me (just out of curiosity, is there a way to tell what sort of stagea mine is?? what are the diffrences between rs4/rs4s etc..)

Edited by lilcrash
  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  lilcrash said:
thats why i thought it was possibly r+r, and what i originally thought was a miss feels more like its stuck at certain rpms and is struggling to rev harder. so im guessing this is the "wall" that its hitting as mentioned earlier. kinda feels like revlimiter but a quicker space between bursts, for eg. rev limiter is like this rev..............rev.............rev.............rev, but this is like rev...rev...rev...rev.

so yer. im lost

Hi

This rev...rev...rev...rev sounds very similer to what i had a while back. It would hit at about 4000 rpm it turned out to be the fuel pump. One sard fuel pump and a fuel presure regulator an all is well againe. I would still go with the new coil packs as these will be a good investment if you intend to up the doost in the future.

cheers

phil

  chook said:
oh phil, now you have really confused things, he is sure to get the Corolla now :P

So in summary, 5 for coils, 4 for R&R and 1 for fuel pump.

I don't know if it is coils? how can you diagnose symptoms without testing? All anybody can offer is speculation, now that you have bought new coils I really hope it doe's solve your problem, cause if you were considering an insurance job before this might put you over the edge. Good luck with it. I gotta go insulate the wirring on my coil pack harness with silicone as nissan wrapped it with insulation tape (dodgey buggers)

Edited by rb30dett

phil, i think i may have to be against the fuel pump thing im sorry. its just that the problem goes away with the new spark plugs every time. but lately it only misses if i boot it after cruising for a while.

and chook if i was to get a toyota it wouldnt be a corolla. rather a jzx90 chaser.

i was kinda getting to the point where i wanted to make a deal with some one who is only upgrading coils for performance purposes. like borrow there coils for a day test or what ever.

thanks for the help everyone. after christmas i will know if the coils work.

well, fixes:

install a better fuel pump, such as a 040 Bosch, or gtr fuel pump

if not interested in outlaying cash then at the least wire the fuel pump to a direct battery feed, to get more voltage (13.8v)

a 2ndhand gtr fuel pump isnt expensive anyways.

build a air:fuel ratio kit from jaycar and install and tune, or find a 2nd hand safc II off ebay. search to minimise the cost.

use ngk BCPR6E copper .8mm vgruve plugs, under $20 for the 6. money definately not wasted, good for 20,000kms+ and 300rwkw

grab the selleys 401 hitemp industrial silicone sealant, and a corking gun from bunnings ($15 the lot), and go nuts on the coilpacks.

there will be plenty of sealant left for the toolbox so it isnt money wasted (lasts yrs).

with the new sparkies, the coilpacks sealed to stop wasted spark, and a better fuel pump with directwire battery feed to deliver max output, put the car on the dyno and tune the air:fuel ratio. adjust the timing slightly, and you'll gain power whilst providing better fuel economy, and it should hit the nail on the head as far as R&R or wasted spark goes.

my guess, $200 for the parts above all up plus a dynotune

  lilcrash said:
money isnt the problem. my missus will kill me if i buy something i dont need is all.

sorry to be so late into this problem from my experience . I have found after weeks & weeks of sorting under boost & under standard boost i did have a break in the wiring loom for th coils . have been running up to the boost cut in an s2 for 25000 kms and have had no dramas . still run this boost now and looking at running more with a greddy profec b . good luck hope it works out for you soon .

  Tangles said:

well, fixes

grab the selleys 401 hitemp industrial silicone sealant, and a corking gun from bunnings ($15 the lot), and go nuts on the coilpacks.

there will be plenty of sealant left for the toolbox so it isnt money wasted (lasts yrs).

if you want to have a mess like that good luck ,nice simplepost-36964-1227358939_thumb.jpg

post-36964-1227359032_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1227359327_thumb.jpgpost-8496-1123070395.jpgthen spray what colour you like ,there is few topic`s on coilpack`s & i have also posted on them ,but make sure you clean then well very well tape up connector`s & rubber cover, post-36964-1227359659_thumb.jpg i did mine 18 month`s ago & still sweet + i have found easy way to tell if it is coilpack`s ,PUT AC on FULL & if you get miss then you know what you are LOOKING for :) .cheer`s chuckie.

  • 1 month later...

the only issue i found is none of the bolt holes line up very well,( the 2 bottom ones are close enough that you can bolt them, but the top one and the one on the longer pipe is no where near the holes, i used the supplied zip ties to hold it for now until i can get new mounts put on) and it sits on a weird angle, i bent my mounts to lift it away from the road and level it.

  lilcrash said:
the only issue i found is none of the bolt holes line up very well,( the 2 bottom ones are close enough that you can bolt them, but the top one and the one on the longer pipe is no where near the holes, i used the supplied zip ties to hold it for now until i can get new mounts put on) and it sits on a weird angle, i bent my mounts to lift it away from the road and level it.

that was exactly the same issue I have with my stealth cooler that the bolt holes don't match up (I got the top bolt hole to match but the bottom ones are slightly off)...I've just gotta make some time to make up a piece of steel that bolts to the two bottom mounts and then use one of the remaining L brackets I have to bolt it up to the middle (the center vertical bar where the horn and top mount of the cooler is)...and also fix my miss (new plugs) and investigate what sounds like an almighty air leak

tape has worked twice for me . one guy didnt even notice his car was missing . it was 100% the token miss . run clean get to 4.5k pop pop pop then pull hard rest of the way through . will buy split fires if my car ever needs coils . mine are mint atm

Greddy emanage Ultimate (im bias lol, but any after market ecu will do) chuck it on the dyno get it retuned for your mods.... presto problem solved. People waist alot of time and money and tempory fixes but something i have learned with my car is any mod you do to enhance performace (+- fuel, air, timing) while using the stock ECU will often cause you grief unless retuned properly.

I stress this is only my opinion and will probly have alot of people who disagree!

Edited by loymclure
  • 2 weeks later...
  chuckie said:
post-36964-1227358939_thumb.jpg

post-36964-1227359032_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1227359327_thumb.jpgpost-8496-1123070395.jpgthen spray what colour you like ,there is few topic`s on coilpack`s & i have also posted on them ,but make sure you clean then well very well tape up connector`s & rubber cover, post-36964-1227359659_thumb.jpg i did mine 18 month`s ago & still sweet + i have found easy way to tell if it is coilpack`s ,PUT AC on FULL & if you get miss then you know what you are LOOKING for :D .cheer`s chuckie.

brilliant chuckie - thanks for that adaption of an idea :cheers: I'm gonna take a look around for that spray silicone.

  lilcrash said:
yer just a quick update, ITS BACK . . . . . . . . . dun dun dun (evil music)

It's gonna be your coilpacks mate... I had exactly the same issue once i raised the boost to 10psi.. Car was missing badly around 4500rpm then would slowly clear up... changed the coil packs to spitfires and now pulls hard all the way through to redline..

ive had the miss since i bought the car(it was stuck on 3psi, the intercooler put it back to the stock 10psi) so boost isnt the problem, but yer im going to assume its coil packs. hopefully when i get my check from just cars il get some splitfires(even though i should replace me rims so i dont have to keep reinflating them), i should have just got my parents to get them like they were going to, i only told them to get the cooler because i had a huge boost leak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...