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Hey guys just want to know how to figure out if the factory airflow meter in my R33 GTS-T is stuffed?

Is there a give away or..

I basically put on a pod filter the other day and now the car is idling funny and revs are fluctuating on the odd occasion when put into neutral from 600-900RPM..

Edited by MP_R33

you would think if you had a problem it would have done it before you put the pod on? maybe pop your airbox back on and see if it still does it. did you put an atmo bov on recently? nothing wrong with the stock bov in my opinon.

give it a clean with electrical contact cleaner. be gentle though. should make it part of your routine when you service your car.

Sounds like your AAC valve.

When I had a bung AFM in the GT-R it would rev to a certain point then cough/flutter and top out at say 2500rpm, load also caused it to do this. It idled fine though.

What you're describing sounds more like an AAC valve clogged up. Very easy to clean, do a search it's been covered to death. I've done it personally when I had similar issues and it worked a treat. My idle was stuffed, all over the shop. Very common.

  • 1 month later...
Hey guys just want to know how to figure out if the factory airflow meter in my R33 GTS-T is stuffed?

Is there a give away or..

I basically put on a pod filter the other day and now the car is idling funny and revs are fluctuating on the odd occasion when put into neutral from 600-900RPM..

hey mate, sounds like your experiencing what i experienced.

what kind of pod r u using??

when i put a new pod my friend gave me (just thawt i'd try it) it really messed with the car, revs would rise and fall when at idle and when driving/boosting a little bit the engine would miss or seize between 4500rpm & 5500rpm, and also it was coffing out black smoke (which wasnt doing this before with my old pod)

as soon as all these started to happen chucked on my old pod and away she went again, when i went to dodsons one of the mechs told me that some cheap arse pods jusnt arent compatible with that some engines it can just "f**k things up" he also said the black smoke could be from and mostly likely is from the "oil in the cheap shit filter" as i explained that it only ever did that when that pod was on

Edited by jaikabis

I have a similiar problem, but mine has been fine til recently, and I havnt changed the K&N pod over since I bought it.

I thought AFM, not sure if its when I bought it or its happened over time, should give it a clean really..

My idle is about 1500, drops down to 1000 and sometimes 800-900. Its never consistent, and when it is, its always above 1000revs.

More recently, its beginning to get to a point where it wants to stall. :laugh: Not heaps often, but after some driving its fine again!

Mate of mine unplugged the afm while it was off, it fired up and idled high, plugged it back in, and it was sweet. :D

I went to put air in my tyres one night, turned it off.. did the tyres, tried to start it back up. She wouldnt even fire. So I pulled the dipstick for the oil out for some reason and thought, ill try now... It worked! lol...

I get the occasional missfire, but that happens rarely. And its always just one cough...

Sorry for jacking ya thread, perhaps its easier to explain in the same one. :ninja:

To test your AFM get a multi meter and check it for voltage under load. It should read 4.5-5v under full load. If your not seeing that then you have a problem with your AFM. In my experience so far this is the best way i know of to test an AFM. There are 3 wires normally on your AFM connector, power 12v, earth, signal 5v. You want to probe the signal and an earth. Colors vary make to make but the obvious would be 12v red, earth black, signal yellow.

Deren

Another great way is to borrow a friends. If you know someone local that has a car running mint, swap it out and try that.

Its what Lith and I did with my coilpacks in his car. Basically eliminates an area of possible problems without spending a cent.

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