Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im after a shifter for a rb box but i am a little confused bout the different types of shifters

i have seen pictures on ebay of nismo solid shifters and the r34 has a kink in it but r33 ones dont

so is it possible to get pictures of stock shifters from a r33 and r34 rb25det shifters so i can compare them?

thanks in advance!!

What one are you after?? If you are looking for an R33 one I bought one by accident (meant to get the R34 one), will sell less than advertised on ebay if that is what your after..

PM me if you are interested mate.

ok i couldnt find any pics on stock shifters but on ebay there are 2 nismo solid shifters

r33

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/jdm...hifterrn580.jpg

r34

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/jdm...shifterer34.jpg

now can anyone confirm if the r34 really does have that kink in the stick?

cheers

Yes 34 does have a kink in it and it is needed

thanks heaps mate!

=)

thats the answer i needed to kno!

=)

couple more questions... is the kink to put the shifter further back? or further forwards?

and i assume rb25 boxes from a r33 are the same from a r34?

The kink brings it into the cabin but you dont even notice it because of the covers. If u have a 34 you need 34 box as they came out with pull style clutch and from memory there are a few updates with regards to syncro rings etc that make them last longer and stronger. i also think the nylon bush on the end of the selector may be a different size but not 100%

Edited by cankas
  • 4 years later...

hello,

I know this thread is a bit of a blast from the past (but it shows I've used the search button!)

Are the shifters interchangeable without any problems?

I have an R33 Box in a VL with an R33 Nismo shifter which sits fine, but if I go to an R34 box (for pull clutch setup) will the R33 shifter still sit in ok?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...