Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to a change of plans in my build up I have these for sale:

1. Greddy Emanage Blue + Ignition, main, and Rb25det Neo adaptor

This is the full kit with everything you need to get going. Never fitted, in orginal box.

$350 + post

2. Apexi Hybrid "cross back" FMIC.

This is a genuine Apexi cooler in excellent condition. Comes with brand new piping and silicon joiners and high grade clamps. Uses exisiting piping which means no cutting holes!

$450 + post

Located in Kogarah, Sydney

PM or call 0416275449

Pics on their way.

Also driver AND passenger Bride Superlow seat rails for R33 GTST coupe (could fit others)

$150 each + post (available this weekend)

From the Apexi site:

The Hybrid GT Intercooler Series uses an exclusive cross flow design on all the cores. These cores are the only cores designed specifically for front mounting. The front of the core uses a delta fin type-face with two different types of fins. The fins at the base of the Delta Wedge are tightly packed while the fins at the top of the Delta Wedge are loosely packed. This allows the channelled air flow at the base of the Delta Wedge to cool more air while the loosely packed fins at the on the top prevent any unnecessary wind turbulence.

The front mount is for any skyline I believe. It was off a R33 orginally but I never fitted it to my R34.

The emanage harness is the universal one. There was a bit of confusion here people. The Neo engine requires and aditional harness on top of the Ignition and Main harness it comes with. So in total there are 3 harnesses it comes with. Sorry about that.

Also

Pillar gauge mount to suit r33 I believe but should fit other skylines (did fit a R32 with a bit of a gap) = $30 posted!

Koni shock adjuster + instructions = $5 posted!!!!!!

Pics

Koni.jpg

emanage2.jpg

pillar1.jpg

pillar2.jpg

pillar3.jpg

rail1.jpg

rail2.jpg

rail3.jpg

rail4.jpg

CIMG6666.jpg

Gauge holder and Emanage R34 Signal adaptor still available. Rest has been sold.

Selling signal adaptor for $20 with free post!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...