Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes. well 32 and 33 are definitely the same. 34 may have a little difference (air temp sensor is on the plenum in 32/33, 34 has it cooler moutned, not sure if there is provision for it on the 34 plenum).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245138-gtr-plenum/#findComment-4265253
Share on other sites

He wants another one so he can polish it and replace his existing one to reduce downtime of his car..

The R34 GTR plenum (well thats what I was told) I have has the air temp sensor at the front of the plenum.. guess it must be an R33 one?

Cheers,

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245138-gtr-plenum/#findComment-4265422
Share on other sites

Yer thats the reason, what J'z-R33 said...

I cant reali afford to have the car off the road for long... So instead of pulling it all off sending it away and then replacing it etc. im going to buy the parts get it all polished up and replace it there and then... then sell off the left over parts again...

Money wise ill loose out i know but again cant have it off the road

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245138-gtr-plenum/#findComment-4265432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
×
×
  • Create New...