Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking at getting a bleed valve but dont want to fork out for the boost guage. In my eyes it would be best to get an EBC if u r going to spend the money on guage and valve (would be nice but $$$)

Anyway, I was wondering in ur experiences what is one of the more trustworthy brands of valves that rarely spike since I wont have a guage. Will be getting the car dyno'd once installed as I will also have a SAFCII by then. Hopefully all spike issues can be resolved on the dyno then.

What are peoples opinions on the various bleed valves and of having a bleed valve without a boost guage? Have heard the DNA valves are pretty good. ANyone vefify this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24518-bleed-valve-without-boost-guage/
Share on other sites

Dude,

You've had a few other probs with your car recently, low compression and stuff... why take another risk?

Rule of thumb, NEVER boost a car without a gauge, even if you get it done on a dyno! Dyno's cannot simulate the load the car will encounter on the road and as boost is load dependant, good luck.

Get a cheap-ass $60 gauge from supercheap or repco before you start playing around!

Originally posted by Strich9ine

Dude,

You've had a few other probs with your car recently, low compression and stuff... why take another risk?

Rule of thumb, NEVER boost a car without a gauge, even if you get it done on a dyno! Dyno's cannot simulate the load the car will encounter on the road and as boost is load dependant, good luck.

Get a cheap-ass $60 gauge from supercheap or repco before you start playing around!

I think my mate who did the compression test did it wrong even

though he is a mechanic. After the compression test I took it to Steve at SST, had it dynoed and got 230rwhp with just 3" exhaust for mods. He said there was no blowby and to get a reading of 230hp it was highly unlikely to have low compression. Said nothing was wrong with motor. That certainly made me feel heaps better after thinking my motor was phucked.

Might have to get a cheap boost guage to start of with then. Anyone else had any experiences with cheap boost guages?

I have a cheap boost gauge. I can't justify paying $300+ for a damn gauge.

Even if you choose an EBC later on, a boost gauge is still a pretty critical thing to have.

and NEVER rely on the stock gauge, it doesn't have the granularity that an aftermarket (read: PSI, or BAR readout) can give!

if speedo's and fuel guages and temperature gauges are accurate then what's to say the stock boost gauge ihas to be screwed like eveeryone keeps saying??

why will a $30 gauge from supercheap which screems cheap and inferior quality to me work better than a gauge which ws made by nissan?

does not make sense to me...

i can't see why upping the boost by 2 or so psi can't be observed on the stock gauge. please prove me wrong...

Originally posted by ImPrOvIsE

I think my mate who did the compression test did it wrong even  

though he is a mechanic. After the compression test I took it to Steve at SST, had it dynoed and got 230rwhp with just 3" exhaust for mods. He said there was no blowby and to get a reading of 230hp it was highly unlikely to have low compression. Said nothing was wrong with motor. That certainly made me feel heaps better after thinking my motor was phucked.

Might have to get a cheap boost guage to start of with then. Anyone else had any experiences with cheap boost guages?

230hp with a 3" turbo back exhaust? Thats pretty damn good, are you sure its got a stock ecu? Would be interesting to see the AFR's. To get 245hp @ wheels I was running an ebc set at 12psi, turbo back exhaust and a fmic.

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

if speedo's and fuel guages and temperature gauges are accurate then what's to say the stock boost gauge ihas to be screwed like eveeryone keeps saying??  

why will a $30 gauge from supercheap which screems cheap and inferior quality to me work better than a gauge which ws made by nissan?

does not make sense to me...

i can't see why upping the boost by 2 or so psi can't be observed on the stock gauge. please prove me wrong...

Its screwed because its in a bad spot and hard to read, the measurements on it dont seem to be linear or accurate and it reads in mmHG I think (from memory) instead of bar or PSI. The majority of boost gauges are just simply a vacumm gauge, so they dont have to be expensive to be good.

Originally posted by rob77

Its screwed because its in a bad spot and hard to read, the measurements on it dont seem to be linear or accurate and it reads in mmHG I think (from memory) instead of bar or PSI. The majority of boost gauges are just simply a vacumm gauge, so they dont have to be expensive to be good.

you're advising people to go any buy a shitty boost gauge because the stock one is hard to read and in a bad spot???

i have done chemistry among other sciences and i know that 760mmHg = 1.0 bar = 14.3 psi

so, 7 on the gauge is about 13.2psi and half-way on the gauge would be 6.56psi

its not hard to see the gauge and if you use yuor maths correctly it can't be that hard to wind the boost up 2 or so psi and just keep an eye on the gauge.

i feel that everyone has jumped on the banwagon of 'stock boostgauge is shit' and run with it...

advice to ppl out there: don't believe everything you read (including my utter ramblinge here). go and make your own decisions...

Originally posted by WazR32GTSt

you're advising people to go any buy a shitty boost gauge because the stock one is hard to read and in a bad spot???

i have done chemistry among other sciences and i know that 760mmHg = 1.0 bar = 14.3 psi

so, 7 on the gauge is about 13.2psi and half-way on the gauge would be 6.56psi

its not hard to see the gauge and if you use yuor maths correctly it can't be that hard to wind the boost up 2 or so psi and just keep an eye on the gauge.

i feel that everyone has jumped on the banwagon of 'stock boostgauge is shit' and run with it...  

advice to ppl out there: don't believe everything you read (including my utter ramblinge here). go and make your own decisions...

I dont believe everything I read on here. I just find the stock boost gauge pointless for the non stock turbo I'm running, as it doesnt read over 13.2psi. But as its goes from -7 to 0 to +7 with no other figures inbetween only marks I find it annoying and hard to read and I dont tend to look at the tacho constantly when I'm dring hard, I tend to look at the road and my other boost gauge which is mounted on a pillar gauge at around eye level to the road. *shrug* do whatever you feel suits you? Would you jump off a cliff if I told you to? :/ This forum is full of "opinions" and my opinion is the stock boost gauge is shit.

rob i totally agree with you then.

if your turbo boosts over 13 psi then the stock one is completely useless

i'm referring to the r32 really with my opinion where the gauge is above the tacho not where it is in the r33, and is withing easy glance whilst accelrating...

and opinions is what makes these forums good. one person only has limited thoughts but collectively we possess great ideas and tips and tricks based initially on ones opinions. keep them flowing i say...!

Originally posted by rob77

230hp with a 3" turbo back exhaust? Thats pretty damn good, are you sure its got a stock ecu? Would be interesting to see the AFR's. To get 245hp @ wheels I was running an ebc set at 12psi, turbo back exhaust and a fmic.

AFR are apparently running to rich. I am getting my SAFC II soon and hoping to get around 20rwhp and then bleed valve hoping for 10-15rwhp @ 11psi. Do you think these are reasonable expectaions. Both mods 30-35rwhp?

Pretty sure its a stck ECU. Had a look once and it had "Nissan" written on it.

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...