Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a little issue, when i start my car when hot it runs really rough for about 15 to 20 to seconds then comes good. It will do if i leave the car parked in the sun all day at work and is technically a cold start the engine is cold but is a really hot day. It is even worse if i drive it on a really hot day park it and come back to the car and go to start it again it cranks for alot longer ("flooded it mate") and then starts sounds like a subaru and sometimes will even stall. I have to keep the reves up for little bit then it will run and drive as per normal. I dont have any other issues with missfires or anything at any other time eg: cruising, fullthrottle all sweet just starting when HOT.

Car is r33 gtst series 2

Mods - FMIC, Exhaust, Splitfires, Iridium plugs gapped at .8mm, Power FC, Standard BOV, Apexi POD. and a R34 turbo (12psi). Everything is standard. I use MOTUL turbolite 10-40w engine oil.

I figure it cant be the cold start valve cause it does it with engine temp at 30 or 90 and AAC colged up would cause issues all the time.

Any help would be great Thanks all

Mine used to play up and return bad economy until I shoved in another set of injectors. Economy pretty much went from 450+km's per tank to 350ish over night. Changed o2 no difference.

With another set of injectors it only stumbled ever so slightly which pushing in a little more fuel on cold start fixed.

I've now upped the fuel pressure slightly and it never stumbles old cold start even if I lean it right out; just takes a few more cranks to start.

There's a few threads on this issue. Check out the search button.

Start during winter i only had it do it to me a couple of times and wasnt really that bad but as soon as the lovely queensland heat kicked i began having issues, i dont have an adjustable pressure reg and i really dont want to bump up fuel pressure as for there are thousands of skylines out there running similar setups to me that dont have an issue and would like to try and nut out the problem not just cover it up. :ph34r:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...