Jump to content
SAU Community

Nitro Cars : Info & Prices

Rob

By Rob,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rob Collaborator

Rob

Posted
Posted

Howdy all,

I'm just after some info on Nitro cars and what types you guys have (ed Andrew etc...)

- What is the best brand

- How much do they cost

- What is the maintence required

- Any Website's/Forums etc around that you go to for info

- Best shops to buy from in Adelaide

Also what scale do you use?

I heard something about the RS4 , its 4wd and u can get with a GTR shell etc.. can't remember the brand.

It is something I think would be great fun to do , and even something we could organise as an event in SAU?.. I dunno.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24525-nitro-cars-info-prices/
Share on other sites
TIMMMAYYY Mentor

TIMMMAYYY

Posted
Posted

Generally 1/10th scale is a goer.

You can buy kits starting from about $500 ready to race. The more full on you want it to become, the more expensive. Kit Race Cars are about $1k without any running gear, so $500 with everything is a pretty good starting point.

RS4 is made by HPI (yankee brand). Have a look around at a hobby store ( I use Hobby Habit , Main North Road, Blair Athol (near sefton plaza)) You can buy a GTR shell from either Tamiya brand of HPI, they're about $50 each unpainted.

Maintenance is low, i'll let dean tell ya what there's 2 do with nitro since he's raced at littlehampton.

www.modelflight.com.au for a bit of information on cars in SA, it's limited information but its a start.

Hope it helps

Tim

EnricoPalazzo Grand Master

EnricoPalazzo

Posted
Posted

Well it depends what u want to do with the little car. If u want somethin like i have, which is a 1/10th Serpent Nitro Tourer 4x4, ur lookin new about 600-700 for a rollin chassis plus then 200 for a motor plus then about 400 for radio gear. Maintainance costs vary depending on how well u look after the car and how many barriers and things u hit. Somtimes me and my bro can go to Littlehampton (racetrack) and spend 5 bucks on fuel and about 40 on tyres, this would be an excellent day.

However on the other hand, weve had clutch, gearbox problems, but worst of all, bent chassis and ****ed radio gear, cost about 500 for new stuff.

Also if u have a car like mine they need to be pulled down everytime u start them basically or else the engines dont last long.

In saying that, there was a shop called extreeme hobbies ( i know them they are all wankers) but they sell stuff for beginners to pros.

What i would recomment most prolly is if u want to fang it around, try gettin pull start motor, plus single speed g/box. Also make sure rubber tyres and all that other crap.

I think ive covered the basics :/

Cya

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

I bought mine on Ebay, Rob http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...egory=2565&rd=1, having seen new kits for about $500-$700 at the hobby shop cnr Main North Rd and Clayson Rd. Couldn't justify the $700 for the one I wanted, so found this one on Ebay instead (and it happens to be an S15 :D ). It works fine and is great fun. Tyres seem to be the thing I will go through most, as I've only ran it a couple of times and they are already showing wear. As long as you look after the cars I think they last quite a long time, and surely before they wear out you would be wanting to buy bigger and better upgraded items anyhow :/

Mine is pull start with single speed gearbox, as Dean has recommended for n00bahs :)

Rob Collaborator

Rob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Far out lots of info , thanks guys it is all extremely useful stuff.

I think I will go something like you have got Andrew like Dean recommends , you are right I can not justify $700 for a starting thing either!

Time to look on ebay!

ps.. damn Andrew that is a nice one you got there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...