Jump to content
SAU Community

Haltech Gt-r Engine Carnage!


PJ.
 Share

Recommended Posts

As many of you may be aware the Haltech R35 GTR Skyline had a catastrophic blow up on Friday the 24th if October. Our GTR has been running on a new platform of Haltech engine management flawlessly for over 5000km's now.

The car was being track tested at Eastern Creek raceway

(http://www.eastern-creek-raceway.com/) when the engine let go. The car had completed countless flat out laps with the engine producing 400kw at the wheels, up from 300kw at the wheels - The driver tells me it was a terrific ride!

After finishing Haltech's latest Flat shifting calibrations a few more test laps had to be carried out. With no sign of trouble the car went out and successfully completed 2 more laps before finishing up on the side of the track leaving a trail of oil and plume of smoke behind it.

It was time to put it in the trailer and go back to the workshop to pull it down. After building up enough courage our in-house mechanic removed the VR38DETT from the car and set it up on the engine stand.

A few hours later the engine was fully stripped and the damage to the engine was clear - It appears Haltech have found the limits of Nissans new super car!

The engine had met its maker.

Piston #1 and #3 had separated from their lower halves right through the center of the gudgeon pin. As the Conrod's had no piston's to guide them up and down the bore they started smashing the bore, block, oil pump, sump and anything else that got in their way.

Due to the massive damage to the block we will need to replace it. And figure it's a great time to make the engine a little stronger. We will be boring the motor out and installing Darton sleeves, replacing the factory cast pistons with a study Forged unit as well as installing a set of Billet conrods. This should allow the engine to reliably produce over 400Kw at the wheels and handle the pressure.

Keep an eye on the Haltech website or drop us an email anytime for further updates.

Edited by PJ.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for the update. I too would like to see pictures.

Congrats to Haltech for finding the limits (I know that's a weird thing to say but that's how we find out the limits of all engines - by blowing them up) and I hope they learnt heaps from it that will advance future development of the VR38DETT.

I feel for them in terms of how long it will take to do the rebuild and the $ involved. Hopefully the research was worth it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wonder if any of the japanese tuning houses have done anything this outrageous.....they all seem to be making pretty bits rather than hard core bits. But then, they do have different focus than us.

Excellent point!

Has anyone released aftermarket rods, pistons etc for the 35?

All i see is carbon & titanium bits. I guess the engineering of the more important parts takes longer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well it was making 30% more power after all, and that is still with the factory turbos, factory fuel system, factory cooling system, factory intercoolers. not a bad effort for the poor little engine. :D especially since in this case 30% is 100awkw! Anyway, hopefully it will be back soon. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are very few performance parts we can actually get. Darton are doing the sleve's for us, and the Rods are still up for grabs. ACL have the gaskets and are making us a full set, as well as a set of pistons. We have sent them the remaining pistons to measure up and diagnose the exact cause of failure.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are very few performance parts we can actually get. Darton are doing the sleve's for us, and the Rods are still up for grabs. ACL have the gaskets and are making us a full set, as well as a set of pistons. We have sent them the remaining pistons to measure up and diagnose the exact cause of failure.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

Was the car still running the factory Oil???....I had an interesting conversation with another R35 owner & engineer who feels the 0-40 blends are a recipe for disaster when punishing any of these high performance monsters & we should lean towards 10-50 or the likes of castrols Edge 10-60 for Aussie conditions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, you killed it with a mechanical over-rev?

Normally a rod will fail due to a extreme tension strain when this sort of thing happens, but i'm guessing since they are made from titanium, the gudgeon hole in the piston was the weakest link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

was there an actual diagnosis on what happened?

The pistons are with ACL at the moment being tested - In the experience of several of our customers (who have come to visit!) we are all in agreeence that the piston simply pulled apart at the gudgeon pin. This is common for overrev's or simply overpowered piston. Track racing the car on cast pistons with 400kw, i tend to believe overpowered. Plus the twin electronic throttle system and electronic gearbox make an overrev impossible! It doesnt let you select the gear if it will rev too high, and on downshift it opens the clutch until its safe! amazing!

but i'm guessing since they are made from titanium

I read this in the nissan blurb too - but in the same blurb it also states forged pistons.... Im no expert on the rods, but these look and feel just like any other nissan rods i have seen..

As for the oil, it was using the reccomended mobil oil. And I agree with you about viscosity for many engines. And also believe that a lot of people are using oil that is way too thin for clapped out "race" motors in the australian climate. But the newer close tolerence variable cam engines normally need to run pretty much the same oil that is reccomended.

As for the gearbox - we are ontop of that too. Heaps of GTR first gears already breaking and already seeing a gearbox with under 10 launches get crack tested to see that its ready to go its time for a full gearset in ours as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update guys. I was wondering what happened to the car after I read about the earth shattering kaboom.

Sorry to hear about the motor, but not sorry to hear you're boring it out. There's no replacement for displacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...