Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I guess I'll use this thread to introduce myself too. I'm an American, living in Japan, currently driving a turbo S15 Silvia, it's a great car, but I've always been a fan of old school Japanese cars. My wife has given me approval to buy a Hakosuka (early 1970's Nissan Skyline).

So I'll be picking one up, and I wasn't exactly sure what I was going to do with it, but a nice deal has fell in my lap. A friend from work is leaving Japan back to the US in October, and has said I can take anything I want from his 1996 Nissan Skyline GTS25 4 door for free, since he was going to junk it anyways. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the car, it's fairly common for people here to just take their cars to a junkyard when they leave.

So, after doing some more research, I've decided to swap the N/A RB25DE into the KGC10. It's been done many times before, and is a fairly simple swap from what I've read. But what all should I grab from this R33 to transplant over to the KGC10? Here is the list I've made up so far:

Engine

ECU

Complete Wiring Harness

All dash wiring

Brakes/hubs front & rear (would these be a worthwhile upgrade on a KGC10?)

Electronic climate control

Air Conditioning parts

Can anyone think of anything else I should grab?

Initial plans for my KGC10 are to swap out the stock L20 motor for a stock RB25DE with RB20DET 5spd transmission. Plans eventually are to build an RB25/RB30 with ITB's, cams, header, head work, etc, etc.

I know I'm not in Australia, but I'm hoping you guys can help me out, since this seems to be the most active Skyline forum on the net.

Thanks!

edit: oops, I just realized there is a Skyline specific general discussion. Could a mod please move this there? Sorry for the trouble :banana:

Edited by JasonG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245408-r33-gts25-and-hakosuka-questions/
Share on other sites

Frankly, a genuine "Hakosuka" is too rare a car to go around bastardising it with late model equipment. It will retain its value far better if left in original condition. IMHO.

Well it's going to be a KGC10, not the KPGC10, I can't afford a genuine GT-R at $100k+ USD.

I know, the car should retain the stock L20 motor, but that's not what I'm going for. It's not a motor I want to deal with building, when I could just throw a RB25DE in there with ITB's, extractor, management, cams, etc and make 200+rwhp. All while having a much smoother motor, with much better reliability.

Edited by JasonG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...