Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i just got me a bov and was wondering what to adjust it to. it has a screw on it but im not sure what the difference between adjusting it to, to me loosening it make a hissing noise.

also when installed i rev it and hear 1 or 2 flutters from my pod but the bov opens at the same time. i know it opens coz i can feel the air on my hand [self reved from the engine bay]

thanks

also i have searched and after a reading "bovs are gay and blah blah blah" cant really find this info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245430-hks-ssq-adjustment/
Share on other sites

If it's a genuine HKS SSQV it doesn't have an adjusting screw in it as it's not required.

Cheers

Marty

only the new ones have no screw..the older ones do have a screw

turning it clockwise will set it harder and anti clockwise will set it softer...the more boost your running the harder you set it

i installed a new one and it would stay open for too long and lag my turbo heaps... the older ones must have been heaps better with the adjusting screws..

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

so your saying that a BOV that releases the pressure inside the the inlet piping on gear change isnt working correctly?

since thats exactly what they are designed to do im not sure where the issue is, there should be lag from a system running a BOV as the turbo re-pressurises the piping.

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

Well personally I don't think the new SSQs work well under high boost pressure.

With my current setup i have a HKS 2530kai and im running over 20psi with supporting mods. When i run that much boost with the SSQ it would stay open for a second or two after gear change, and the air would go into atmo instead of back into the plenum..

I'm not sure as to why this happened (too much vaccum under high boost pressure for the SSQ to handle?), but it only happened with the SSQ and not with any other atmo bov that I owned.

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

I've installed many atmo bovs and they all lagged my turbo in between gear changes (this is normal with atmo bovs).

Oh and I wouldn't have bought a bov if I intended on flat shifting 24/7.

Edited by EVL-R33

Craved, I am quite aware of how a bov works, as I said, lag between gears on the new SSQV was terrible compared to the RS, obviously the SSQV is prone to staying open longer or has slower/buffered piston movement than other name brand bov's.

EVL-R33

With my current setup i have a HKS 2530kai and im running over 20psi with supporting mods. When i run that much boost with the SSQ it would stay open for a second or two after gear change, and the air would go into atmo instead of back into the plenum..

This is exactly what I am talking about, the SR20 in question was running close to 28psi and had an actual delay when shifting, knocks all the power out for a second or two like the bov doesnt close properly of fast enough,,, rip SSQV out and put in Greddy RS and presto no more problem... just regular minimal lag one expects from an abov...

has nothing to do with MAF either, all the cars I do now run VEMS or D-jetro.

In my opinion besides sounding retarded and looking gimiky the SSQV is just an expencive POS. Greddy, Tial or Synapse any day of the week for actual function which is what its there for.

Edited by Rezlo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...